How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

:beer: Great job rounding up parts and on assembly! You are correct if you started off with the timing dots lined up then it won't mater if the engine turns as the timing chain keeps the timing gears relationship correct for the camshaft and crankshaft. To prove it to yourself turn engine through two compleate revolutions from TDC or until you come back to TDC from were the engine is now. TDC this is where the crankshaft key way is pointing straight at the center of the cam gear and with the cam gears dot will then be pointing to the dot on the crankshaft gear. Once you get it all back togeather with the new timing chan set and rebuilt rocker arms if you wanted to you could do anther compression test to see how much those new parts may have changed it. I am betting the timing chain gears will make a good difference plus the rocker arms should make it run a little smother and quieter. Keep it up :nod: (y)
 
"...too much coffee..."
how much DO you drink on a reg day, bra?
:unsure:
 
@ chad this is good stuff that's why I get too excited. In the spirit of taking a breath and slowing down I wrote this post to see what you guys think

Ran into a little speed bump.

My timing cover gasket finally came on Saturday. I followed the shop manual and applied the permatex aviation gasket sealer. (the one Roy uses in his engine rebuild video). I applied it to the cover not the block mating surface. (the book says apply sealer to cover). I went to install the cover but my bolts were too long and the timing bracket was not lining up right. I realized I had a '66 cover and that the same bolts I had on the '68 cover would not work for the '66 cover. I had gently torqued some of the bolts to 10 ft/lbs but obviously not all the bolts are on right now.

Couple questions:
If I remove the bolts I have on there do I need a new gasket?
I torqued them to 10 ft/lbs and when i went back to check the torque I noticed they would spin a little bit more. I know these bolts don't need to be very tight but the extra spinning makes me a little nervous. What do you guys think, stripped?
I bought some shorter bolts and I am going to see of those fit better but any other things I should look out for with using a '66 cover on a '68. I don't care if the bracket isn't on as it still has the timing numbers on the cover.
 
:unsure: Sounds like the gasket just squeezed down a bit with the initial tightening.This is normal.Gently re tighten.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
its kinda zen, the coffee will not help w/that. My provisio might ("slo dwn") come in here:

~Givin the brain time to click in one might look at the materieal in frnt of ones self, slo scan even B4 pickin ipa tool..steel block, steel screw, alu cover...hummm, "ahhh, U can break it w/these steel objects. I should B careful."
Not a good example, but what I can think of right now.~

The guy who I wrk w/(actually "who allows me around his shop") has been at it 40, 50 yrs. He has goddamn tq wrench in his wrist. We who do not - must B very careful, even w/these metal things? For me - I must start out saying "can I relpace this if I damage? How can I damage?" cuz I am poor and that thought will 'wake me up, push my "alert button" or "slo dwn" button. Still - I mostly only do exhausts, breaks, floor sweepin, etc here....
:shock:

(hummph, ur pic come thru today, can C 'em)
 
X2 if the bolts were only tightened down to 10 ft. lbs. that's is odd unless the bolts were to long and bottomed out you could try adding a flat washer and lock washer. It's very doubtful you stipped any threads in the block, some times bolts that have been tightened many times will get elastic and stretch or even break if that's the case it's better replace them, still this would be odd at shuch a low torque level. It is also quite possible that some crude in the bottom of the timing covers threaded block holes are giving a false torque reading (I.E. Combo of dirt, oil, etc.) and that could also account for the bolts loosening up after being torqued down. Did you happen to use a bottoming tap, a stiff wire or small round brush to clean out all the timing cover bolt holes in the block?

Did you compare or measure the bolt bosses of both timing covers if so was there any difference in the boss lengths? If they are the same lenght then the orginal bolts are still going to be the right length. If those bosses are different adjust the bolt lenght accordingly. Gasket is probably fine with it being glued down with the aviation cemet, if you want you could use a light coat of solicone on the other side. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
Happy Father's Day to all the dads out there.

Well it has been quite the journey but I am at the end.

Thanks for your help on the timing cover, I got shorter bolts and it fit well.

I was able to get the oil pan on and valve cover on with no issues. The rear seal is a little tricky but I think I got it on there well because so far no leaks but I haven't taken it for a spin yet.

I was super nervous starting it up but I can tell that the engine is much happier now.

Here is the video: https://youtu.be/-WswXgAexn4

I cannot thank all of you enough for your help on this and I hope that someone can read through this thread and gain value and confidence for their own inline 6. :beer:
 
:beer: Congrats Drake, and Happy Fathers Day to you! Great job completing all the repairs, engine sounds really good and is very smooth running now. i can tell there is a good bit of difference from it's previous running condition. In my opinion this was well worth the effort in your time and Money you spent. Did you also reset the base ignition timing and readjust the carb settings yet? Was wondering how much the base timing charged with the addition of that new timing chain and gear set. I can't wait to hear your fallow up report on you driving impressions, and hope you do another compression test to see the improved results, I am quite certain that it will also show some good improvement there too. Enjoy driving your Mustang best of luck. (y) :nod:
 
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