Help rebuilding my Autolite 1100 carburetor

[shreqshack]

I am trying to raise my 65 mustang inline 6 from the dead....it hasnt' been started in 20 years.
I am staying with the stock parts for now. I am trying to rebuild the carburetor. I bought a Walker rebuild kit and installed those parts without much problem.
I have a couple of questions....here is the diagram I used to help with the rebuild: https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/autolite-1100-exploded-view/

My carb is currently off of the car
1.) Is the vent valve rod supposed to stay closed....unless engaged by the vent activating lever? I am thinking that I may need to replace the spring. Is the spring supposed to be strong enough to keep it closed.
2.) Is the throttle plate supposed to be completely closed. on the bottom. unless activated by the accelerator pump control rod? I am wondering if I need to replace the over travel spring.

Thanks.....any other tips on rebuilding the carburetor are welcome!

 

[bubba22349]

Your post was made in the wrong forum I moved it into the 144 - 250 Small Block Six Forum for you so more site members will see it.

1. The bowl vent will only be closed at certain times. The vent valve Rod opening is controlled by the Carb's Throttle Position, it would be very unusual that the bowl vent spring would ever need to be replaced as it dosnt need very much spring pressure to close the bowl vent valve when it needs to. The purpose of the vent linkage is to allow some air into the fuel bowl, the newer carb versions just had an open vent hole without all that vent linkage. When the engine isn't runing that bowl vent is closed this works well to keep the fuel in the bowl from evaporating quite as fast. The fuel systems on these older cars is vented to the atmosphere by the Fuel Cap and the that Carb Bowl Vent otherwise the fuel pump couldn't pull fuel out of the fuel tank and then engine wouldn't be able to run.

2. Again these springs wouldn't need to be replaced unless they happened to break. The throdle plate will always be just slightly open and it needs to be in order for the engine to idle. The curb idle is set by the throdle adjusting screw after the engine has been tuned by doing these steps.

Tune up Specs for a 1965 Mustang with a 170 or 200 Six
1. Spark Plugs are gapped to .034
2. Points are baseline set to .025
3. The Point Dwell Angle is then set to 38 Degrees engine idleing.
4. Set the Base Ignistion Timing to 8 Degrees BTDC for a Manual Trans or 12 Degrees BTDC for an Auto Trans
5. Next with the engine warmed up good the Carb mixture screw is adjusted to the lean best idle.
6. Then Last The Curb Idle RPM is Set. For a Manual Trans this is 500 RPM or 485 RPM for an Auto Trans with it in Drive and Parking Brake Set.

Check that your float is in good condistion ie no cracks on the brass type floats as that can allow fuel to enter inside it making it heavy. if you find a hole or crack empty the float of fuel and dry it out then solder the float to repair it or you can replace it with a new one. With the Nitro type floats check to see if they are heavy or have soft areas if so replace with a new one. Be sure to get your float level setting right it's usally better to be just slightly low than to be too high. Carefully check and make all the bench settings before the instal of carb. Best of luck

 

[shreqshack]

Your post was made in the wrong forum I moved it into the 144 - 250 Small Block Six Forum for you so more site members will see it.

1. The bowl vent will only be closed at certain times. The vent valve Rod opening is controlled by the Carb's Throttle Position, it would be very unusual that the bowl vent spring would ever need to be replaced as it dosnt need very much spring pressure to close the bowl vent valve when it's needs to. The purpose of the vent linkage is to allow some air into the fuel bowl, the newer carb's versions just had an open vent hole without all that vent linkage. When the engine isn't runing that bowl vent is closed this works well to keep the fuel in the bowl from evaporating as fast. The fuel systems on these older cars is vented to the atmosphere by the Fuel Cap and the tgat Carb Bowl Vent otherwise the fuel pump couldn't pull fuel out of the fuel tank and then engine wouldn't be able to run.

2. Again these springs wouldn't need to be replaced unless they happened to break. The throdle plate will always be just slightly open and it needs to be in order for the engine to idle. The curb idle is set by the throdle adjusting screw after the engine has been tuned by

Tune up Specs for a 1965 Mustang with a 170 or 200 Six
1. Spark Plugs are gapped to .034
2. Points are baseline set to .025
3. The Point Dwell Angle is then set to 38 Degrees
4. Set the Base Ignistion Timing to 8 Degrees BTDC for a Manual Trans or 12 Degrees BTDC for an Auto Trans
5. Next with the engine warmed up good the Carb mixture screw is adjusted to the lean best idle.
6. Then Last The Curb Idle RPM is Set. For a Manual Trans this is 500 RPM or 485 RPM for an Auto Trans with it in Drive and Parking Brake Set.

Check that your float is in good condistion ie no cracks on the brass type floats that can allow fuel to enter inside it making it heavy. if you find a hole or crack empty the float of fuel and dry it out then solder the float to repair it or you can replace it. With the Nitro type floats check to see if they are heavy or have soft areas if so replace with a new one. Be sure to get your float level setting right it's usally better to be sliaghtly low than too high. Carfully check and make all the bench settings before instal of carb. Best of luck

Thanks so much!!! This really helpful. It sounds like I can keep my existing springs....perfect! I was initially afraid to take the carb apart....but it hasn't been as difficult as I thought it might be to get it back together. THANKS AGAIN!!!

 

[shreqshack]

Your post was made in the wrong forum I moved it into the 144 - 250 Small Block Six Forum for you so more site members will see it.

1. The bowl vent will only be closed at certain times. The vent valve Rod opening is controlled by the Carb's Throttle Position, it would be very unusual that the bowl vent spring would ever need to be replaced as it dosnt need very much spring pressure to close the bowl vent valve when it's needs to. The purpose of the vent linkage is to allow some air into the fuel bowl, the newer carb's versions just had an open vent hole without all that vent linkage. When the engine isn't runing that bowl vent is closed this works well to keep the fuel in the bowl from evaporating as fast. The fuel systems on these older cars is vented to the atmosphere by the Fuel Cap and the tgat Carb Bowl Vent otherwise the fuel pump couldn't pull fuel out of the fuel tank and then engine wouldn't be able to run.

2. Again these springs wouldn't need to be replaced unless they happened to break. The throdle plate will always be just slightly open and it needs to be in order for the engine to idle. The curb idle is set by the throdle adjusting screw after the engine has been tuned by

Tune up Specs for a 1965 Mustang with a 170 or 200 Six
1. Spark Plugs are gapped to .034
2. Points are baseline set to .025
3. The Point Dwell Angle is then set to 38 Degrees
4. Set the Base Ignistion Timing to 8 Degrees BTDC for a Manual Trans or 12 Degrees BTDC for an Auto Trans
5. Next with the engine warmed up good the Carb mixture screw is adjusted to the lean best idle.
6. Then Last The Curb Idle RPM is Set. For a Manual Trans this is 500 RPM or 485 RPM for an Auto Trans with it in Drive and Parking Brake Set.

Check that your float is in good condistion ie no cracks on the brass type floats that can allow fuel to enter inside it making it heavy. if you find a hole or crack empty the float of fuel and dry it out then solder the float to repair it or you can replace it. With the Nitro type floats check to see if they are heavy or have soft areas if so replace with a new one. Be sure to get your float level setting right it's usally better to be sliaghtly low than too high. Carfully check and make all the bench settings before instal of carb. Best of luck

Thanks so much!!! This really helpful. It sounds like I can keep my existing springs....perfect! I was initially afraid to take the carb apart....but it hasn't been as difficult as I thought it might be to get it back together. THANKS AGAIN!!!

 

[wsa111]

Bubba, gave you all the details on your 1100.
Just want to inform you if you decide to change your loadamatic distributor to another one with centrifugal & vacuum advance, there is a tech article on how to convert your present carb for ported vacuum & eliminate the SCV function. If you ever want it done professionally i charge $75.00 + parts + shipping.

 

[shreqshack]

Just wanted to give you all a progress report. I successfully rebuilt the carburetorAnd got it back on the car. I replace the wires, cap, points, and rotors and it started right up.... after sitting in a garage for 20 years. Thanks to all!!!

 

[bubba22349]

Congratulations on a job well done!

 

[chad]

mike's is tops, glad U found him. C his vids on rebuilds too...(no just above diagrams)