All Small Six crossflow head

This relates to all small sixes
N

nline6

New member
Hello, it's been a while since I've been on here. As I said in my first post, I am doing a project with a 200 six with a crossfloiw head. Finally, I am.working on this I am almost finished with the head. I have been trying to find more info other than the original post by fordsix. Does anyone know if he finished his build? I have been unable to find anything on that. If it's on here could someone, please direct me to that post. Also has anyone actually done the 1jz rod swap? I will be documenting this and posting as it goes along. So far, I have had to replace the valve guides and exhaust seats. and weld the coolant passages. I will try to post some pics soon. Thank you all for your help and all the wonderful info on this site.
Thanks
Robin
 
If you are referring to Mustangsix, I believe he did complete it and put it in a Locost, which he later sold. I thought there was a page on fordsix describing the process. Think he also had a crossflow Mustang

He currently spends time on the mgexperience forums, mgexp.com- he assisted me in the purchase of a Classic Inlines aluminum head after Mike passed. He also operates Ceres Motorsport in Orlando(?) FL
 
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Hi, thanks for the info, I'll try to reach mustangsix on the mg forum. I would sure appreciate if drag-200stang would post any info on his rod piston setup. Thanks again for the help. I'm posting some pics of how I plugged the coolant passages. In order to shorten welding time & reduce heat I bored the passages and installed plugs, then welded the plugs in place.
 

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Long story short, forget every word in post 4 that was quoted of me, it is wrong. Fingers were going faster than brain.
I ran custom aluminum rods, do not do it, they hit the cam, block, and the bottom of cylinder. The 1JZ rods where not an option then. You want to run the after mkt. 1JZ 4340 4.931'' rods.
fast64ranchero has information, in his thread in the ''Aluminum head'' section on here about the rods and other good stuff. Pay close attention about the availability of some of the metric ring sizes. Your head may require some valve reliefs in the piston that the log head does not, not sure. PS, you are doing a nice job on the head.
 
1JZ rods are a little longer a little wider on the big end and the big end ID is much smaller have the stock crank ground to Toyota 1ZJ rod specs and the mains remain standard 200/3.3L Ford Custom pistons will be required. Good luck on your project.
 
Here’s the link on the crossflow

Australian 250 Crossflow Swap

The 250 Falcon engine with integral manifold is limited in performance due to the restrictive nature of the cylinder head. To get the most out of it requires radical modifications to improve both intake and exhaust flow. Several rodders have...
fordsix.com fordsix.com
 
Hello everyone. i have decided to use the stock rods. The rods have been polished. and will be completely reconditioned including shot peening and cryo treated, with arp bolts. My new valve guides have shown up so I will be finishing the work on the head soon, as well as starting on the block mods. Once again thank you all for your help. I will keep posting as I proceed.
 

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Looks good. But I would like to see less trimming of the oil spurt hole, the bump helps reinforce the rod at the hole. Here is a tip, if all of the balance pads on the top of the rod, the small end, are long. you can take some off all to save some weight that is just there to make factory balancing faster and easier. Be careful and keep checking the small end weight as you go. Remember that the oil spurt hole faces away from the cam, toward the major thrust side.
 
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Hi everyone, I wanted to share a little more on the build. My rods have been shot peened resized and new arp bolts installed. I finished the block mods, I decided to bolt the plate to the block, so I prepped the block and plate by roughing them up with a grinder. I bolted a couple of plates to the deck to butt the new support plate to. I bolted the plate to the block using five 1/4-20 bolts then filling the entire thing with JB weld. Notice I wrapped the two plates on the deck surface in alum foil, as not to bond them to the support plate. Today the pan rails on the block were milled as well as the initial cleanup on the deck. This coming week I will be starting to build the new oil pan since I am dry sumping this engine. Below are some shots of the progress. PS I have made contact with Mustang six.
 

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Which cam and intake are you planning to use?
How are you handling the ignition (distributor fitment)?
 
Hi rocklord, the intake and carbs I'm hoping to use are a lynx intake with a trio of 40mm Dellorto DHLA's. I got a smoking deal on the carbs and couldn't pass them up. I got my manifold on ebay for $115. to my door. I'm getting ready to send my cam out for analysis, I still have to calculate compression ht then I'll send out the cam. I'm hoping to run a crank trigger ign, but most systems i see are requiring a cam speed senser, need to figure that out. All ideas on that are defiantly welcome. I have gone through a lot of threads. looking for one on a vintage inlines head with Tripple Weber's hoping for a baseline on chokes and jetting. any info on that would also be appreciated. Enclosed is a shot of my intake setup. one carb left to go on the rebuilds. PS I see that you have a 61 Lakewood, if you ever consider getting rid of it please let me know.
 

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Triple Weber DCOEs

Hi Folks, I'm looking to be schooled on triple Weber DCOEs. I have a manifold coming for my aluminum head (coming March), and I'm deciding if I want to try and use triple Webers. It will be in a 1968 Mustang 200, with the CI/VI aluminum head and custom intake made by Does10s from way back. Car...
fordsix.com fordsix.com
 
show from "back" too?
 
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