Mpg tanked again

As far as a board to block the radiator- been doing that for 10 years, till this new t'stat. Mine slides nicely infront of the rad/AC condenser. That way no chance of coming loose and getting into the fan. Mine is 10" wide, same height as rad.
Yes, having it in front may make access a bit more difficult, but it almost eliminates any chance of mechanical issues.
 
Large diesels have a thermostat (or a pair of them) that act as a full-flow bypass. When closed, they don't choke off and stagnate the coolant in the engine
This.
Automotive engines are further down the Longevity/Value curve than Big Diesels.

But since we in this Forum are in the business of speculative post-production "re-engineering"....

I believe our engines ( like most automotive ), have a form of re-circulating by-pass that is the heater core circuit.

I wonder if a 2 thermostat system could be adapted from this? Possibly with an insulated pressurized reservoir (pass car overflow tank?)

In this pipe dream, the heater circuit might have a lower temp T-stat to isolate the reservoir during warmup, and blend in its capacity up to the higher cut-in temp of the factory position T-stat.
Once the coolant exceeds this the main T-stat housing would open the much bigger factory flow through radiator, just as with the current design.
 
In the context of the OP's issue, which is normal temperature operation at 20°F ambient - that should not be an issue, and is fully anticipated in standard factory Ford vehicles. I don't have that issue below 20°. Does anyone else here have problems reaching normal temperatures and a nice toasty blower at 20°F? An airflow blocker should not be required.
Ok but on a boat it has a huge flow restriction that allows it to get up to temperature. That flow restriction makes the water move slower allowing the engine to build up heat. Thats why the water coming out is barely bigger than a pin hole and not like a garden hose.
Which is exactly what a properly-working thermostat does in a I6 or V8 inboard boat, or your truck. It squeaks out hot water only when it's hot enough, and only then is there any room for cold water to get in, which is mixed into the constantly-flowing coolant being recirculated through the engine, heater core, etc. No shock. Like a drip I.V. into the constant blood flow in your veins.

A quality thermostat does not surge cold water in, and only barely opens a little at rated temperature. If it's just hot enough, it will only just open. That's why the rating is often called "cracking" temperature, as it only cracks open a hair. Test this with your thermostat in a pot of water on the stove (standard test procedure). As it approaches rated temperature, watch it. You probably can't even see it's open at all without a light to see the little crack-open space. We see this in data every time, and only poor quality, defective or damaged thermostats, or when they are not fully immersed in coolant (air bubble) surge or cycle enough to be a concern. 🤷‍♂️
 
I have the same temperature issues as the OP. The gauge (verified by a mechanical gauge) only runs in the middle when ambient temperature is over 100 degrees.I have tried a couple parts store thermostats. Thanks for the quality thermostat recommendations.
My original plan was to use a heater core valve t'd into the radiator hoses to produce a controlled hot water bypass. After reading how you don't want cold water going into the front of the engine, I think I will still rig up a bypass if I ever get around to it even with a quality thermostat.
 
My original plan was to use a heater core valve t'd into the radiator hoses to produce a controlled hot water bypass.
Just use care that the tee must pass full bypass flow either to the heater core or looped-back (or both), as reduced re-circulation flow can cause hot spots or cold shock during warmup. If it is modified to bypass the thermostat, it will delay warmup, but slightly improve maximum cooling capability. Probably not a good tradeoff.
 
Actually I meant a T in the upper radiator hose after the thermostat and then through a controlled valve and into a venturi T in the lower hose.
 
Actually I meant a T in the upper radiator hose after the thermostat and then through a controlled valve and into a venturi T in the lower hose.
If the t'stat is closed that won't help. There's no flow in either hose until it opens. Your idea will work if the T is before the Tstat into the lower hose. It would help with over-cooled radiator, but not the initial stagnant system
 
A Toyota Tundra active radiator shutter looks like it might be able to be installed in front of the radiators on the 1980’s to 1990’s pickups.

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The shutter might work well with proper fan thermostats.
 
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It has an electric motor. Where I’m from, it would be helpful 8 months out of the year.
 
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It has an electric motor. Where I’m from, it would be helpful 8 months month ms out of the year.
I'm gonna guess it is controlled by Yota's EMS computer?
To juggle the various airflow demands of radiator, AC condenser, trans cooler, and maybe oil and intercooler if so equipped?
 
Ok i may have goofed. Originally i thought the milage foe the trip was only 180. Turns out to really be 220 before i fill up again, this trip being 13.4 gal giving me close to 16.5 mpg. And today heading up there i had a strong head wind which gave me more drag and kept my coolant cooler than it should have been. Same went for the return trip but i had a tail wind this time and mpg looked better. Wind was bad enough a tractor trailer nearly tipped in front of me, im assuming he was empty but still thats a lot of wind.
 
Did some digging and I believe your truck is a 1994 F150, XLT, 4.9 EFI, 5spd, 2wd, extended cab, with 8ft bed.

16.5 MPG seems fair. Is this with E10 fuel?
 
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Did some digging and I believe your truck is a 1994 F150, XLT, 4.9 EFI, 5spd, 2wd, extended cab, with 8ft bed.

16.5 MPG seems fair. Is this with E10 fuel?
Most likely, at most gas stations it says E10 mixture. And while 16.5 mpg is fine, im also trying to be as economical as possible since i use it for my work truck.
 
In an earlier post, you mentioned that you’re waiting for a Motorcraft thermostat to come in. Did you receive it? It should help once installed.
 
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In an earlier post, you mentioned that you’re waiting for a Motorcraft thermostat to come in. Did you receive it? It should help once installed.
I ordered it on amazon. Good place to get factory parts cheaper. It hasnt came in. I think they sent it thru the post office and they lost it. Still waiting for it to come in.
 
Sooo, not as secure as i thought it was 😅. I found a good spot in front of the radiator. This should work till the post office finds my thermostat.
 

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Over a week and the motorcraft thermostat never came in. Flowkooler thermostat it is, should be in by next wednesday. If the motorcraft one shows up ill just keep it as a spare. I need some of these checks to come in so i can order some more parts.
 
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