It worked when I parked it.

BoncStang-60s

BoncStang-60s

Well-known member
Now that my wife's 67 Mustang it running well, I thought I'd spend a little time with the family 66 Bronco.

I Evicted a snake, vacuumed up hundreds of acorns and about 10 lbs of rust. Pressure washed and scrubbed. This vehicle hasn't run in years. When it did it was a plow truck.

The engine used to turn freely but now it won't. I'm thinking mystery oil in each cylinder. Any advice?

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... xy7i1Q0j5W
 
aahahahaaa
U know those R famous wrds. (That don't mean 54!+).
:eek:
B4 ya gum it up, just C if U can turn 'er by the fan?
C if a grab'n twist gets ya anywhere. No? pull the plugs'n try. Line em up ona board so U know which holes they came from.
Now try again. Still no twist? Try a pop w/a fresh battery & tiny either. Nuttin? Then squirt ur oil down the holes. I guess its a six. Look down them w/a light. If it seeped thru use some ATF & acidtone, cuttin fluid or rust bust the next day, a few days. Leakin thru means bad rings but loose enuff to turn the motor by the crank snout.

How long has it set since running? (Noises? smoke? back then) You might not hafta go this far. U might get it to turn w/a charged battery, can of gas on the fender to get it to run. Usually this new gas (hi ETHO) evaporates quick'n gums the lines, tank & carb (several wks to less than 3 mo w/o Stabil in there, right ratio). If it's stuck good U must help in other ways 1st so as not to hurt valves'n push rods. More later, go slo, step by step. Read those plugs when 1st taken out or snap a pic & ask here...

I think you got the same plow as me & are only a few miles from here. In 40yrs of bronks I never saw the apparatus U have on the pass side rear. Looks like a home made spare mount? Right where they useta put the 'ranch hands" (ford product).
 
Hi, just so you know, you have some rare, 66 only parts on your Bronco. Some I see are the bumpers, tailgate, round mirror, long transfer case shift lever and silver seats. I'm sure there is more. You also have the same hub locks that came on my 66 (November 65 build). Your Bronco is in much better shape then mine was. Mine was rusted pretty bad. Is your A pillar shot? Is that why the door is propped up?
Anyway, I would put a few squirts of engine oil in each cylinder and try to turn the engine a little bit at a time. Once it starts to move a little each way I would try to go around a full revolution. Post what happens after an oil change and a good battery. Good luck
 
The crank bolt is 13/16th. Remove all spark plugs & spray Deep Creep penetrating oil into each cylinder.
Let is sit for an hour & then using a long wrench see if you can get some movement of the crankshaft.
 
Nice Bronco! Broncos leak so if it sits out in the rain water will get inside and cause more rust. If you see an area you would like to decrease rust until you restore put some rust mort on the rust. Can purchase from an auto paint store. Would like to see a picture of engine bay.
 
last, if my ideas don't wrk put a tq wrench on the crank. If it goes above abt 100 lbs w/o turning I'd say disassemble (or try the flywheel teeth, crow bar)...dont wanna bust up internals, U can twist the nut right off the crank snout - means a new crank (ask others on the ft lb tq I suggested. It may take more, I am uncertain but at least it's a guage on where U R/what U R doin)...
If U do get it runnin on the eather & fresh battery do not suck up the crap frm the gas tank. It may clog the filter/carb etc. U just wanna Dx the carb/timing. Use the can a gas to run. At ten min of run change the oil. I use an ele fuel pump (some run offa reg hand held drill) on the battery to pump the tank clean. May wanna flush it or just keep goin 4 now on the tankagas on the inner fender. I seen ppl drive to a lift w/that (so as to cut the old tank loose'n start over) and even around town fora few days ("Do I wanna put more time'n $ into this? How much?") w/it ona longer hose in the pass compartment... In that few min of runnin listen, look, smell, feel (smoke, tappet/lifter/valve noise, temp of H2O in hoses, ck coolant level, oil level). If U hear top end noise some put a cleaner thru (Bars is a good-un, poor slowly down carb as it runs). Some sea-foam it (another product).
Crackin it open is just a single step. It needs close follow for awhile (2 - 4 hrs, 200 mi) to see if things R copasetic. Leavin set for more than a mo or so is one of the worse things to do in my mind. A 10 min trip around the block every mo or 2 is a maintenance form of care'n concern. One that requires less wrk later. We must respect our equipment (not over rev, haul so much as to stretch the frame, leave unattended for long periods of time, forgo maintenance, etc).
(y)
 
:D Chad "it worked when I parked it" has a lot of meaning around here. Just don't mention it to my wife.

This Bronco has lots of issues yet I'm hopeful that I can revive it to some degree. The side spare mount bracket looks factory. I'll get closer pictures.

Bad news all around. The 5th cylinder from the front is filled with coolant. The freeze plugs are still in place so I'm baffled "head gasket?". I think the head, intake and exhaust manifold will need replacement. I'll get pictures to show what I mean.

I did try and turn the motor with a Gates strap tool, but no luck. It ran fine as a plow truck 25 years ago, but I haven't run it in over 15.

The A pillar is shot. It has been as long as I've known the vehicle. The floor pans are rusted out as well. I don't think I'm up to a frame off restoration but would like to repair some of the sheet metal issues.

The spare mount points on the passenger side look factory but I've never seen them on other Broncos. I'll get close up pictures to show.

Thanks Tom
 
B RON CO, interesting that it has rare parts. I'd like to save it if I can. The A pillar has been shot as long as I've known the vehicle. I bought a replacement from Bronco Graveyard but never tackled the project.

I'll see if I can find the VIN.

Tom
 
Chad, I agree on always running the old system just to keep things from getting worse. That's how I managed to keep the mustang from getting worse. Unfortunately, the Bronco didn't get the same respect.

I'm afraid it's going to need some $$ before it's running again. :-(
 
Chad, I agree on always running the old system just to keep things from getting worse. That's how I managed to keep the mustang from getting worse. Unfortunately, the Bronco didn't get the same respect.

I'm afraid it's going to need some $$ before it's running again. :-(
 
C if the frame's any good. Sometimes hidden rust around the gas tank area.
If U want it 2 run grab the VIN plate & start over. Keep transfer & rear axel.
I even re-did seats, steer wheel wuz OK, gas tank (its plastic), may B paint
some day? Nah...
Everything's available after mrkt...
Sad to say, mine wuz abt like this 38 yrs ago, by late 80s its basicly what it is now.
Just swaped in 250ci & 5 speed last 5 yrs or so, plenty left to do...
 
You could try soaking the cylinders with diesel or kerosene it can work to free a locked up engine but it's going to take some time. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Hi, pretty overwhelming stuff. My Bronco was worse in some areas, but better in others. My Bronco, a U-14 1/2 cab, was a shop truck / plow truck at Hempstead Lincoln Mercury where my father worked. Long Island, NY.
It is my understanding that if you got a U-15 wagon, with no bulkhead, the spare was mounted to the inside of the tailgate. If the Bronco came with a bulkhead, the spare was mounted to the bulkhead. Maybe you can find mounting holes on the inside of the tailgate. I don't know what the tailgate mount looks like. Perhaps someone put it on the passenger quarter panel.
Have you visited the Classic Bronco forum? Plenty of Bronco info there.
Good luck
 
I remember Muzi. I think they hada huge sign over on Rt 128, which may be I95 now.. Was abt 20 min from my house 55 yrs ago. Haven't been that way in 30, 40 yrs. Builder, commercial driver (of all sorts) and hi school student there. Needham is now part of the megalopolis from Portland to Miami (yrly wage 130, 150K$ yr, 3 bd rm house 1mil$ ona 1/4 acre lot). Had rural areas is exurban now. Very lill to zero infill to build out now. I see it hasa a Fisher Plow Pump (itsa good'un) but would change out the controls. I put a 'joy stick' (one lever) on mine. Its makes the same kinda sense as havin a spare tire w/ya or a working e-brake - not necessary but life is easier.

Its all got a very, very long way to come. Some have done it, I took 3 close to 40 yrs ago to make mine, the 4th. As said, now U can buy everything needed to re-make. 1st step - I C U may B on the way, is to drag it under some cover and take apart...
 
Very cool that you've had yours for all these years. It's definitely easier today with all the repro parts. All you need is money and time :unsure:

I'd be happy just to get it running and make incremental improvements. It would be fun if only a Sunday dump run vehicle as we're still a rural community.

I'm afraid at the very least I'm going to need a head, intake and exhaust manifold. Are these things available? Would it be easier to find someone that wants to sell a 170?
 
"...someone that wants to sell a 170..."
I'd say so. Less expensive, easier, less time consuming...
If ur in S.NH no biggie. Just lill hills. If upaways U may want the 200 as it's gunna B alota shiftin (if not auto)
and slo travel...a lill more carb's needed too. U have 411 gears in the rear (most likely).

"...All you need is money and time..."
yeah, right! Glad the emoji is there (I'd add: tools, space equipped, knowledge, skill, temperment,

Play w/it a lill, then decide. Under cover sure makes a difference tho. Meanwhile:
https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi
is the kinda search I do.
(y)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top