Hard starts with aluminum head, for years when hot. feel slight better performance with fuel filter vapor seperator.

wcol

Well-known member
Just something I came up with, thought I would share with forum. I have 66 mustang. I have one of classic inline alum. heads back in 2007-2008 with 4 barrel 500 cfm carb from edelbrock. For years til just recently, I fought vapor lock issues mostly in hot summer months, sometime idle had to be increased to stabilize. Hard starts after shut downs for 15 min. Just slightly poor performance all the way around. Past 10 years, I installed composite spacer to remove heat from carb, I'm sure this helps, but still had issues. Obviously alot of heat in engine compartment from alum head, headers right below alum intake. I was considering a a fuel tank with electric fuel pump inside tank from aeromotive inc. I was wanting to keep carburetor for now, so I would need a regulator then switch over to holley sniper later on.
I installed a fuel sending unit with a standoff vent port to vent fuel system back to tank from CJ pony parts. They have a 66 mustang fuel tank sending unit for $60-$70... has a port on it to vent fuel system back to tank. After installing this I also installed a fuel filter with vapor separator. So the fuel filter has three ports instead of two, one in and one out. The third port is a metered port that vents back to tank. I can not tell you how huge of a difference this made on performance all the way around. I feel like the engine carburetor with stock mechanical pump has a better signal, easy starts, and so far hot summer no hard starts. Whole different feel to engine, then the mechanical fuel pump dead head pressure to carburetor with no pressure venting back to tank. As of now I am keeping the carburetor and mechanical pump. Not considering fuel injection now. Fantastic improvement with mechanical pump and 4 bbl carb.
Here is a video of an older mechanic explaining this. Also cj pony part link for sending unit. Also link to fuel filter. Total cost was $90-$100. I also installed a black reinforced black flexible fuel hose to handle higher pressure to go back to tank. Just some info, Check it out, see what you guys think. It helped me out tremendously for small amount of money.. Just make sure the filter has an restricted orfice to go back to tank. Like I said, I feel a slight better performance with engine with this setup.


(video of fuel filter with vapor separator)

(sending unit with vent port)

(fuel filter with vapor separator) (you can get this from local parts store)
 
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Thanks, I also got a sending unit from cj with the extra return inlet after seeing the same video some time ago.
I bought the WIX 33040 fuel filter which DOESN'T have an orifice and was wondering if that would work (engine not running yet), so I had an extra brass in-line-orifice made just in case too much fuel is going back to the tank...

Now I'm considering just buying your exact filter since it worked so well out of the box ;)
Thank you for sharing your experience!
 

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I installed the 1/4 inch return line to the gas tank, now I have to figure out where to put the vapor separator fuel filter.
At first I was planning on doing it like this:

mechanical fuel pump --> fuel pressure regulator --> VAPOR SEPARATOR FILTER --> carburetor

With the separator as close to the carburetor as possible. After reading on this forum (https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/fuel-vapor-separator-on-440-6pak.148543/) and seeing that Mopars got the vapor separator directly after the fuel pump I am considering doing it this way:

mechanical fuel pump --> VAPOR SEPARATOR FILTER --> fuel pressure regulator --> carburetor

The black canister is the Mopar vapor separator:
Mopar vapor separator.jpg

But wouldn't it make more sense to mount the vapor separator closer to the carburetor inlet?
 
From what I've researched on the internet I will definitely install it after the pump to keep the gas circulating.
Close to the carb is the goal for now, maybe I will make the .060" orifice smaller if need be...
 
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