The 300 head has a good exhaust flow compared to the intake and doesn't need the extra exhaust duration in a non racing application.I was not wanting to go over .550 lift. I'm used to seeing a dual pattern to make up for exhaust limitations. Being a turbo I wasn't sure if a dual pattern was necessary.
I plan on using the efi manifolds. Probably single pattern makes more sense then. Not racing it but need as much power as I can within reason. There is much more I need to learn about this engine. The sbf has soo much info out there.The 300 head has a good exhaust flow compared to the intake and doesn't need the extra exhaust duration in a non racing application.
For a turbo application where there is a good exhaust manifold with fairly long primary tubes, a single pattern cam with a wide LSA that is set 4 degrees advanced opens the exhaust valve early.
This starts the blowdown portion of the exhaust cycle early giving more time to evacuate the cylinder's exhaust pressure to drive the turbochargers.
A longer duration exhaust does the same except it also increases the valve overlap exposing the intake to possible back pressure at low rpm.
The longer duration exhaust seems to work OK at high rpm but it delays the turbo spooling at the low end.
I looked up the flat tappet lifters for the 302 and 300. They had the same part number. I guess I need to find an example of the 302 lifter with the link bar. I didn't figure in the lift and the oil groove. They ran 523 lift on the engine masters with a hydraulic flat tappet. I'll have to pull the tappet cover off and have a look when I get time. It's been raining almost every day in the Phoenix area! This is why I left NW Ohio....There are several issues.
The hydraulic roller lifter is typically taller than the solid roller lifter because of the room needed for the plunger and oil valving.
This puts the connecting bar higher and interferes with the block bosses that the side cover bolts to.
This can be addressed by getting creative with a cross bar or clearancing the bosses or removing them and bolting the side cover some other way.
The Ford 429/460 retrofit hydraulic roller lifters have a spacing very close to the 300 six.
The 429/460 lifter bore spacing is 2.080". I'm not home at the moment to measure the 300 six lifter bore spacing.
The second thing to check is the lifter oil groove around the middle of the lifter body.
It must not go near the top of the lifter bore in the block at full lift with the cam you are going to use.
Open up the side of the main oil gallery so you can see the lifter body alignment.
With the lifter installed see where the lifter groove aligns with the oil gallery at the bottom and top of the lifter travel with the chosen cam.
Another concern is finding a distributor drive gear that is compatible with the billet steel cam gear.
The standard iron gear will not work.
The bronze gear will work but the gear wears fast which is ok for racing but not convenient for a street engine that sees mileage.
A composite gear is compatible and gives long gear life but would have to be a custom item. More research is needed.
There may be another type of steel gear that would work. More research again.
The 300 six use a 16 tooth gear that is not used on another engine V8 or otherwise.
The gear issue needs to be resolved first before ordering a roller cam and lifters.
The bosses would be an issue. I guess I didn't realize the solid roller and hydraulic roller were different heights.There are several issues.
The hydraulic roller lifter is typically taller than the solid roller lifter because of the room needed for the plunger and oil valving.
This puts the connecting bar higher and interferes with the block bosses that the side cover bolts to.
This can be addressed by getting creative with a cross bar or clearancing the bosses or removing them and bolting the side cover some other way.
The Ford 429/460 retrofit hydraulic roller lifters have a spacing very close to the 300 six.
The 429/460 lifter bore spacing is 2.080". I'm not home at the moment to measure the 300 six lifter bore spacing.
The second thing to check is the lifter oil groove around the middle of the lifter body.
It must not go near the top of the lifter bore in the block at full lift with the cam you are going to use.
Open up the side of the main oil gallery so you can see the lifter body alignment.
With the lifter installed see where the lifter groove aligns with the oil gallery at the bottom and top of the lifter travel with the chosen cam.
Another concern is finding a distributor drive gear that is compatible with the billet steel cam gear.
The standard iron gear will not work.
The bronze gear will work but the gear wears fast which is ok for racing but not convenient for a street engine that sees mileage.
A composite gear is compatible and gives long gear life but would have to be a custom item. More research is needed.
There may be another type of steel gear that would work. More research again.
The 300 six use a 16 tooth gear that is not used on another engine V8 or otherwise.
The gear issue needs to be resolved first before ordering a roller cam and lifters.
The piston diameter will depend on the bore size for the block.Do you have specs for the piston? What compression were they set up for? I definitely will be using ARP studs everywhere I can.
I made a mock up engine out of foam and aluminum tape. Took measurements from it . I want to keep it as original as possible. I will repaint it a similar aqua marine color.Port injection or throttle body fuel injection?
What do you want to use for an intake manifold?I made a mock up engine out of foam and aluminum tape. Took measurements from it . I want to keep it as original as possible. I will repaint it a similar aqua marine color.
Will you be using a Holley Sniper or some thing similar?I want to use the Clifford intake I have
tmc5150- just FYI, if you want to see a list of all camshafts available for this engine, see catalog of conceptual build plans for the bb ford thread, post #5- under the BB Ford heading. Schneider and maybe others will do a custom grind, but be aware that Schneider is out of cam blanks and already has a backlog of backorders. If you want a Schneider cam, figure out your specs and put in the order asap, then expect to wait an unknown period of time.Thats the plan because I can't find a machine shop to help me make it into a multi port intake.
Who has tried to use the retrofit roller lifters with the 460 link bars? I was wondering if it will clear the boss area when running? Maybe if I cut away at them and put studs and spacers?
When to comes to a hydraulic roller lifter, AFAIK no one has used one in a 300 six yet so there are no solid answers.The 302 and 300 use the same flat tappet lifters. The retro 302 lifters look like the body where the oil grove is the same as the flat tappet.