All Small Six Yella Terra 1.65 Rocker install questions

This relates to all small sixes

famicomical

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was wondering if these rockers are the right ones for a 200 six with the stock head (1966). I would like to install the rockers without machining/pulling the head. is that possible? if not, what modifications need to be performed? i read something about an oil passage that needs to be plugged.

also, i'm running a DUI distributor, and i've read on here that replacing the lifters can cause oil starvation to the gear. Do i need to mod the lifters too? YT sells a lifter kit of their own

seems like my car has an aftermarket cam because it likes to idle at 1k+ rpm even when adjusted for timing and idle mixture, so i thought the rockers might be a worthwhile upgrade. Still a newbie to this engine stuff but i'm loving it.
 
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Yes those YellaTerra Rocker Arms will fit on your 200 Six and they do bolt on without much work but there isn't a way that you can plug off the Oil Passage in the block or the head without pulling the Head. Yes that Valve Lifter & Push Rod Kit looks Right ones to use with the YellaTerra Rocker Arm Set, or you can use the stock Small Block Ford V8 Oil Through Lifters IE 289, 302, 351. Depending on the Push Rods that you have now you may need to change them too they will use a Push Rod with a Ball on both ends. Many have Moded the Front Lifters for the extra Oiling to Distributor gear to its not hard to do. There are some another Roller Rocker Arm Set that will use the stock non Oiling Valve Lifters and don't require the Block Or Head Oil Passage being Plugged. Good luck
 
Jmustang_65 is right, the RAU rocker arms are a direct bolt on, I also bought one. You need the F-44RRA billet aluminum 1.65 roller rockers. Good luck
 
awesome. thank you guys. those RAU rockers would save me a lot of time. why would anyone use yella terra rockers if they take so much more work?
 
Good point. Do you know a good source for the pushrods? They're out of stock at Vintage Inlines and it seems some people had to have them custom made.

Also, would it be a good idea to change the valve springs? the rocker options guide mentions that the original springs would otherwise suffer from coil bind.
 
I would think that RAU would have something. I would favor a non-stock performance push rod that they should have, and they should know what will work with their rocker assembly.
It would be a good idea to put fresh springs on and valve seals. Springs depend on the cam specs., and I use what the cam designer recommends.
Others may have more information with what they have done.
 
"...ones for a 200 six with the stock head..."; "...idles too hi..." ; "...the rockers might be a worthwhile upgrade..."
Often we get an answer embedded in the question. It sends us off in a wrong direction. When a problem is stated'n we're asked a solution it short cuts "a run down the block/around a tree, just to come back again". "My fan is too small. Who carries a big one that fits my car?" when there is an air pocket in the coolant system causing it a problem.

Is this exercise to correct idle to 5, 600 RPMs? (cut in 1/2 the current)
 
Hi chad, i set the timing at operating temp with a vac gauge -- rotated the dizzy until i maxed vacuum and then backed off a few degrees. I set idle mixture for max vacuum as well. i leaned it out a bit after reconnecting the vacuum advance. the idle speed screw on my 1100 is just barely touching the plate. this is how i got to my current idle speed. if i try to reduce the speed or the advance, the engine idles pretty rough.

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also, i'm going to post my notes so far about this rocker arm project:
The two aftermarket options we're considering are Yella Terra (YT) and Rocker Arms Unlimited (RAU)

If we're going with YT, the head needs to be removed and the engine block needs to be tapped. we also need to replace the pushrods and lifters. the total price of just those parts is $821.87, not including international shipping. Potentially, the #2 and #3 lifters need to be modified to prevent oil starvation at the distributor gear.

Here is a diagram showing the oil passage that needs to be plugged at the block. make sure the plug head is below deck.
oil galley.JPG
here's the post explaining how to do it.

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If we're going with RAU, we need to replace the pushrods with ball and cup style ones.
The original pushrods are 8.350" from tip to tip and 5/16" in diameter. We also need to know the ball and cup diameters. those should be 3/8", unless i'm wrong.
The most economical part number from Smith Bros for such a push rod is NR54A-ED with 8.350" E.L. -- these withstand up to 400lbs of nose pressure.
Now, the price is $8.65 per rod so a total of $103.80 for 12 rods. Adding the advertised cost of the F44R rocker assembly, the subtotal is $882.80, but we save time by going with a drop-in option.

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In both cases, it would be a good idea to upgrade the valve springs from stock. We need to know the spring ID and installed height. The new springs should match our ID and have a coil bind height that is at least 0.050" lower than the installed height minus our total valve lift with the new rocker arms. using dual springs or viton valve seals is not possible without machining the valve guides, as far as i know.
drawing from clochard68's thread, the Comp 903 springs seem like a promising way to go.

here's my new question for you guys: would it be unreasonable to attempt to machine the valve guides with the head still on the engine?
also, let me know if i got anything wrong.
 
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If your gonna do all this works and change lifter. Make it worth the investment get a new cam and cc the head to shave it down while you have it out to increase performance. If not do a leak down test or compression to make sure your short block is good.
here's my new question for you guys: would it be unreasonable to attempt to machine the valve guides with the head still on the engine?
also, let me know if i got anything wrong.
I don't see an easy way to do this on the engine.
 
You can Change out the Valve Spring's with the Head on the engine I have done it several times. X2 If your wanting to Machine the Valve Guides this is also an easy job to do. However to be able to do the job all of the Valves will need to be removed to use the Valve Guide Cutting Tool so now there is no choice and the Head needs has to be removed. Good luck
 
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