All Small Six 1967 Ford Falcon 200 turbo budget build, need help

[Stillwater]

I just purchased a 1967 Falcon with a 200 in it. I have researched for hours and its all blending together. So I am a novice to restoration and engine work. My end goal is to daily drive, but when I hit the pedal I want to go fast. Hoping to get about 20mpg and was thinking that a turbo would be the way to do this. Also thought about EFI. In my research it seems I need to get a 1977 or later head, but can't find one, advice? Are there any articles done with a budget turbo build and cost estimate? Hopefully, listing all parts necessary to do? Thanks in advance.

 

[frozenrabbit]

Browse the Turbo, Supercharger, and Nitrous section.

Turbo, Supercharger, and Nitrous

Power adders only.....

fordsix.com

 

[aussie7mains]

Barra!, 250-2v. A turbo would cost more.

 

[Stillwater]

Barra!, 250-2v. A turbo would cost more.

I'm in the US not sure that motor would fit into a 67 falcon. Also what would it take with electrical and tranny?

 

[PSIG]

Also what would it take with electrical and tranny?

Assuming EFI, about 7 amps higher than stock. For the trans, mods or build to handle projected HP. Often, a build to standard V8 spec's is plenty. My last turbo build with EFI control used common parts and DIY ECM to control them, and a rebuilt factory turbo from a different application. A water-air intercooler and water injection with a custom exhaust brought the total investment to $1800 start-to-finish.

If you use commercial "kits" for any of it, the investment will be much, much higher. Invest your time, or your money, where it counts most. The most important "part" will be the tuning. Save time and budget for plenty of that, to gain both power and reliability.

 

[aussie7mains]

I'm in the US not sure that motor would fit into a 67 falcon. Also what would it take with electrical and tranny?

Probably OTT for you, barra will fit, we have earlier crossflow engines and a SOHC version as well, they all will fit into a 67. You can get carby manifolds for all of them if you could not work with EFI. As to trans, yes that will be an issue as bellhousings are different to the USA sixes. Just for your amusement , here is my 200ci crossflow head blown six. 4 speed behind, this is in a 65 falcon.
This runs on propane.

 

[powerband]

"I am a novice to restoration and engine work. My end goal is to daily drive, but when I hit the pedal I want to go fast. Hoping to get about 20mpg"
.... great to hear another forum enthusiast's project ideas. May be simplest to start with your end goal of a 'daily driver'. Getting your 200 and the ride to dependable is the start of any further upgrades.

'67 has more drivability and small block six 200 upgrades same as later Mustang six than the earlier cars and will move you from 'novice' ... .

plenty of info available here on forum to work with - depending on your resources and abilities ...

20 MPG is very optimistic paired with "when I hit the pedal I want to go fast."
have fun
.
my daily driver

OEM C8DE Ford 170cid /2.8l, Precision Machine D7 Head . Oversize intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR= 9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Champion racing spark plugs, Contact Point/Condensor distributor, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50:1 rear gears, Shelby front sway bar, Addco rear sway bar , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual air line rear shocks, 14” wheels & 205/195-14 tires, Falcon Logo embossed front Bench Seat - Fold Down rear seat, Countersprung Tailgate with Window Crank, Original tube radio,

 

[aussie7mains]

"I am a novice to restoration and engine work. My end goal is to daily drive, but when I hit the pedal I want to go fast. Hoping to get about 20mpg"
.... great to hear another forum enthusiast's project ideas. May be simplest to start with your end goal of a 'daily driver'. Getting your 200 and the ride to dependable is the start of any further upgrades.

'67 has more drivability and small block six 200 upgrades same as later Mustang six than the earlier cars and will move you from 'novice' ... .

plenty of info available here on forum to work with - depending on your resources and abilities ...

20 MPG is very optimistic paired with "when I hit the pedal I want to go fast."
have fun
.
my daily driver

OEM C8DE Ford 170cid /2.8l, Precision Machine D7 Head . Oversize intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR= 9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Champion racing spark plugs, Contact Point/Condensor distributor, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50:1 rear gears, Shelby front sway bar, Addco rear sway bar , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual air line rear shocks, 14” wheels & 205/195-14 tires, Falcon Logo embossed front Bench Seat - Fold Down rear seat, Countersprung Tailgate with Window Crank, Original tube radio,

Perhaps a bit nitrous oxide might provide the temporary boost! This is NOT legal on the road in Australia.

 

[frozenrabbit]

A Barra is WAY out of a reasonable price range in the states. Even if you could get a block and head, good luck getting replacement parts for anything less than an arm and a leg, for shipping alone.

 

[aussie7mains]

A Barra is WAY out of a reasonable price range in the states. Even if you could get a block and head, good luck getting replacement parts for anything less than an arm and a leg, for shipping alone.

A Barra is WAY out of a reasonable price range in the states. Even if you could get a block and head, good luck getting replacement parts for anything less than an arm and a leg, for shipping alone.

Yes that is a problem, you guys missed out on that one. You did have the Chevy DOHC six however, we never had that here. IMO Barra is the better of the two.

 

[frozenrabbit]

Would love a Barra. Falcons stopped here in '70. You guys went to 2016, though I certainly wouldn't want a 2016 one. Not much for looks past the late '70s except for utes.

 

[vssman]

There’s a Barra for sale on Facebook Marketplace located in Terryville, CT for around 2K. Not mine but I saw the add. I put the link in a post in the 144-200 section.

Edit: It looks like it sold.

Edit, edit: looks like he made a new add. Here’s the link: https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:14d97355-6eb7-42d4-8b67-9e636b488bda

 

[rocklord]

There’s a Barra for sale on Facebook Marketplace located in Terryville, CT for around 2K. Not mine but I saw the add. I put the link in a post in the 144-200 section.

Edit: It looks like it sold.

Edit, edit: looks like he made a new add. Here’s the link: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3667715190171412/?referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:14d97355-6eb7-42d4-8b67-9e636b488bda

Rear oil pan sump and no alternator, PS pump, AC pump.
This Barra would fit a Fox Mustang but would need an earlier front sump to fit our vehicles.

 

[Stillwater]

So go fast and 20mpg might be a high expectation. To elaborate normal driving for that 20mpg and fast to 60mph is what I am looking for. In doing more research it seems a Barra in the US would cost around 8k for engine, tranny and all components needed to run. A Mars Ecoboost would be around 7k for a small one and 6 mos out. I have 13k to put into car and need to do body work, suspension, interior and drivetrain. So thinking maybe 5-6k for drivetrain does that sound reasonable? I can't find cost estimate to build a 200/250 or even 240/300.

 

[Jmustang_65]

barraswap.com has some starting at 1000 here in the states.

Barra BA Petrol N/A Engine #42 – Barra Swap LLC

 

[Stillwater]

barraswap.com has some starting at 1000 here in the states.

Barra BA Petrol N/A Engine #42 – Barra Swap LLC

I emailed them and this is what they said

Total cost would really depend on your choice of engine management system, choice of transmission, etc. It can really vary anywhere from a few thousand to $10k+ plus. I'd say an average for everything, not including labor would be $8,000 for the swap to get running at a minimum. It could be done for less if you had access to spare parts, fabrication, etc. If you decide to go turbo it will add additional cost of the parts, fuel system, power holding capabilities, etc.

 

[aussie7mains]

If you want something a bit easier to fit, use the earlier SOHC 4 litre engine from a eb-el falcon, these are OHC hemi head, they have a steel oil pan without the main cap bracing so are easier to modify. They have a jack shaft to drive the oil pump and dizzy like the pre ohc engines, they have the same mountings as earlier engines, but a different bellhousing pattern, same as a barra. The best SOHC is the 2000 AU engine, but it has a cast alloy sump with braced main caps, they are available with VCT. The sohc engines are pretty cheap, a carby manifold is available from Aussiespeed. Bottoms ends are bullet proof. They were rated at around 145-160kw and 350nm torque, all were EFI. Power and torque is close to a good 302. They came with either our domestic 4 speed auto or the BW T5. This might be a better proposition.

 

[67Straightsix]

Keep the 200. Go to the turbo section and you will find quite a few basic turbo setups. The people on this forum are smart and helpful. If you ask questions they usually have good answers. With the right parts, I think you will be happy. I have a 67 Mustang with a turbocharged 200 and I'm very happy with it. You can go much simpler than my build and have a really fun car. Good luck with your project.

 

[Stillwater]

Been doing some reading and think I will keep 200 possibly get 302. Leaning to 200 but in my research sounds like i need to source a 200/250 77 and after cylinder head not easy. Also looks like I need to find an 8" rear end.

 

[PSIG]

The small log head is not a concern if boost is pushing the air through it. Assuming you want fun street power, the boost will be relatively low, and the fuel control will be your best part for reliability. I would suggest starting basic and effective with the head you have (unless needing full replacement or big work anyway), and see if and where you want to spend any more, based on results that much gets you. I think you'll be surprised how a little boost makes a lot of smiles, and a good fuel and ignition system gets you long life and few issues or surprises, without juggling more complexities than necessary.