200 six rebuild kit

adobejoe

Well-known member
I am unsure how far to rebuild this engine. I was going to overbore and install new pistons but I am thinking now maybe just hone the cylinders, new rings, rod bearings, crank bearings, timing chain and gears. The head will get hardened seats and new valves. The engine has about 85,000 miles on a rebuild when I bought it and the buildup at top of cylinders is not much, less then a fingernail thickness. The engine is from a 68 mustang with 7 main bearings and ran pretty well until I parked it in 2000. I am finding more funds are going into the body and mechanical systems. On this 65 mustang..I am rebuilding a dagenham 4spd. I was going to have a shop handle the entire engine rebuild but I think I can handle it and would enjoy the project. Sources for parts, gaskets, seals? I know there are “kits” and likely some cost benefit. I have looked on eBay.....but want some experienced input...so who can give me a suggestion or two?

Thanks!

Andy
 
I'd make 3 references to ya even B4 I ask the important Qs.
Many of us use "the Handbook" as a reference, overview, guide & much more on just this sorta thing (motor rebuild, sort out the car) which can B had from Matt at vintage inlines dot com - supplier who caters to these and no thing else for around $20:
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... e-handbook

While waiting for delivery U might become familiar w/the post '67 changes/opportunities on our 'tech archive":

ci/DSIIswap.html#About

Now the Qs...what will you farm out, do your self? Ur budget? Most important: what is the application/end use of the vehicle? Do U want pep & MPGs (called performance)? More oriented to exacting specs on restoration? DD, Sunday cruse 8, 12 times a yr in summers only? Let us know...
 
HI Andy, yes a re ring kit gives you lots a value for a low cost. One company on EBay that has these kits that have good quality parts is Falcon Performance, they have a basic kit with Rings, Rod Bearings, and a full FelPro gasket set for less than $100.00 and other kits all the way up to a complete Master Rebuild Kit. This kit might have all or most of the parts you need check it out, comes with Rings, Rod, Main, and Cam, Bearings, Timing Gears and Chain, Oil Pump, Full Gasket set. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-200-Basic ... SwL7VWjY~F

Best of luck on your rebuild. (y) :nod:
 
Thanks for the input. My mustang will be a daily driver mostly in winter with a few longer trips. I am not so much interested in hopping it up or swapping equipment. For example I will likely keep the original distributor, the single barrel Autolite carb, and exhaust.
While I have aHaynes restoration guide for the mustang it does not go into detail on the engines. I also have an exploded view manual which is great to show the parts but nothing about specs, assembly, procedures. I prefer paper copy. I grew up using Chiltons, Motors, or Hemings manuals.....something like that if available for the 200 six 7 bolt main is what I prefer.

The falcon rebuild kit looks like what I want...I just need to figure out how the dimensions are specified for the rings,and bearings
Ideas!

The video series are good on the site and the tech section good as well.

Andy
 
"...not so much interested..."
lucky, ur beyond the '67 & lower yr limitations.

For 38 yrs I hada 170ci that served as a very good worker (wrked hard, brought an income outta the woods). Some of the suggestions (modern cam, OEM DSII, valve back cut) are unseen, common sense, cost savings & simply intelligent in terms of automotive science and engineering. If U R heading into the job I think U R I would consider some of these. However, at the mileage U mention I might not do any of it. Just leave as is. It seems awfully early (mileage) for any of this. My motor/vehicle was in the 250, 300K range and still ready, willing and able (but I was loosing my woodlot, the rig is going onto an entirely new lifestyle).
:eek:
Good Luck, keep in touch...

W E L C O M E !!!
..to this forum &
..the whole site !
 
Hi, if the engine was rebuilt you can check the piston for an oversize stamp, and the bearings for an undersize stamp. This will tell you what size rings and crank bearings to get.
I can do all the assembly work except for installing the can bearings.
I have a dial indicator and a few packages of plasti-gauge.
I went through an engine and the head needed 2 or 3 guides ( it already had bronze guides). So I needed the local machine shop for that. I assembled the head myself with new valve springs.
I also upgraded the cam with a very mild comp cams kit and I am very happy with the way it runs. If you upgrade the cam you must degree it.
I went with chrome moly rings and quality American bearings.
I have a 66 Bronco, a heavy 4 wheel drive, so it is not a high performance thing. Just better.
So as mentioned, there are some simple and inexpensive things to think about, like back cutting the valves if you need a valve job. Things you can read about in the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook, things that you are there anyway, so you might as well do it.
Good luck
 
Before you try to disassemble the engine or remove the pistions you need a ridge remover to cut out the top of cylinders lip so as not to damage the pistions. Many of the locale auto parts stores have rental or free use of these tools. There are two ways you can determine the sizes you need to order in the re ring kits parts, when you take apart the engine you can measure your parts with a mic's if you have access to a set of them or can use an inexpensive six inch dial indicator. Or you can get a good idea by examining the parts, pistions with no markings are standard bore, overbored / oversized the pistion tops will have a size marking such as .020, .030, .040, .060, and on some of the newer rebuilds may have MM markings in that case you will need to convert to inches. Rod and Main bearings that have an oval with Fo Mo Co in it or no markings are standard size, when a crankshaft is ground undersize the bearings are oversize and marked as .010, .020, .030, .040. If your crank is still in good codistion or if it only needs a light polish then order the same size. If the crankshaft shows more severe damage you will need to get it reground to next undersize.

When you are ready to start assembly you will need to clean or have cleaned the block and all the rotating assembly parts throughly. The bores will need to be honed so the new rings will seat. You will need a good hone or at the minimum you can use a ball (or as some call it a dingle berry) type hone I don't know if you can rent or barrow one but if not the ball types are fairly inexpensive to buy. For more info on doing this type of a budget overhaul check out a resent group of posts by Bones92 see link below. Good luck (y) :nod:

Bones92's Budget Overhaul
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80834
 
Thanks for input. I will definitely find the ridge remover. I looked at the top of a couple pistons...no marks so maybe they are original. I know a machinist in a nearby town so maybe I will have him renovate the head and I will try the main block.
 
Chad, That is the manual I need except for the 1968 200 ci engine. Also the 4speed dagenham transmission. If I had that my confidence level would increase 300%.

Andy
 
sorry, thats only '60 - '62 & no tranny pages. C the on-line falcon club or stick wid us ! Nother member just laid that down for some1s Q. I'm betting it is not so different (but what real matter 4 us here is post '64 'big hole' at bottom of dizzy AND no more scv/lom '68 on) than ur '68...

Too be honest, full disclosure - I posted it to encourage ur step over into the usefulness of these new computer apps. Adobe, pdf, jpeg, MP3, WAV etc - sharing a manual like that, just click ona button - "my god the page flips!"; pic (I'm still a big fan of uploading pic for understanding, sharing, etc) and sound (I am the archivist and booker for a music ensemble, invaluable when we don't wanna do an in-person interview/demonstration for a gig).

If going to the machinist w/this motor he'll get all the components, match them for compatibility and style of driving U need. If he or another assembles U just need to guide these guys w/an overview of the end product you wish to have.

Will U do the short block urself, cc the head? Degree the cam?
 
before you dig into tearing down the engine, get it running again, and run a compression check, listen for bottom end noises, etc. 85,000 miles is not a lot these days especially if the engine has been properly maintained. so the first thing you want to do is change the oil and inspect the old oil for any metal chunks in the oil. if none then go forward with getting it running again. thee engines are pretty tough and they are hard to kill.
 
Update: My machinist is doing a 0.040 " overbore and a reconditioned crankshaft. Sounds like it needed this and I will begin reassembly in the next few weeks!
 
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