Question about a 200 with a Large Log Head

spacecadet

Active member
Hello all,
I started collecting parts to eventually put a Autolite 2100 on my 200 with a Large Log Head.

I picked up the Autolite/Holley 2v Adapter for the Large Log, from Vintage Inlines. Once it came, I pulled the Carb and Spacer from my engine (which is and Autolite 1100 installed in a 1968 Mustang).

I came to find this;
head_bp.jpg


Now, I am new to the Ford 200. To me this looks like someone sank studs (or bolts) into the original holes and drilled/tapped new holes to fit the Autolite 1100.

Curious what yall think and also curious what people might do?

Maybe my options are very limited... I do not have a garage, I shade tree on the street in front of my house.
 
Hi, I think the casting # on the head shows you have a 1970. In @ 1969 the opening in the head was enlarged. The early heads have a smaller opening, so my guess is that they wanted to keep the original carb on the car.
Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook for all of this information, and get the most out of your Ford Six.
Good luck
 
Thank you- I do have the Performance Handbook.

I used the book and this web site to confirm the date of the head:
http://www.mustang-s.com/parts/heads.htm

Which both suggest the EOBE-6090-BB was manufactured between 1980-83.

The bore does measure 1.75" - I guess maybe I have all my answers and I'm "dead in the water" without modifications.
 
Casting number looks like EOBE-6090-BB that would a 1980 or 1981 200 or 250 large log head casting the Date Code if you look for it would confirm that and give you the exact day it was cast. As far as the cut off head studs that's not too big a problem they can be drilled and an easy out used to remove them. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":3u1c7dc8 said:
Casting number looks like EOBE-6090-BB that would a 1980 or 1981 200 or 250 large log head casting the Date Code if you look for it would confirm that and give you the exact day it was cast. As far as the cut off head studs that's not too big a problem they can be drilled and an easy out used to remove them. Good luck (y) :nod:

Do they look like studs to you?

Im curious if "factory long blocks" came undrilled?
 
Yes they are either cut off studs or bolts soak them real good with your preferred penetrating oil like Twice As Good or Liquid Wrench. Then start drilling them out in the center, shouldn't be to big a job to remove them. (y) :nod:
 
:unsure: The answer is no for the Ford factory long blocks / or late heads not being drilled in that wider carb spacing mouting hole position. In this case someone just wanted to use the early type carb mounting which had a narrower bolt spacing then the later model heads came with for the 1 3/4 inch carb opening. I had this exact head casting number off a very low Milage 1981 Mustang 200 six it only had the wider carb spacing mounting holes drilled and tapped. I understand your concern on this since one of the main reasons for using these better performing large log heads is because they have the larger intake valves, induction hardened seats for use with unleaded fuels, and the larger 1 3/4 inch carb mounting hole so you can use the newer carb's along with a better ignistion such as a DuraSpark II giving an excellent performance boost to the 200 six. The 1968 Autolite 1100 is very good carb for a stock or mildly built engine and its matching duel advance Distribitor is also better than the earlier LOM system.

:shock: So yes its a bit strange that they would be going backwards by drilling and tapping that large log head to be able to use an older carb on it a simple Aluminun plate adapter could of done the same thing. But then again unlike the majority of are site members its also possible that they were only interested in getting the car running with the parts they already had available to them. Instead of doing the that head swap to potentially raise the overall performance of the engine and if that's the case they probably didn't even bother to mill the head down either so you might be losing a little performance due to a lower than the stock compression ratio. A compression test would give a clue as to if the head was milled or not. Even so these heads still do raise the performance some, to the early 200's because of their better intake flow. Due to a lack of knowledge or maybe a lack of budget the previous owner still left some easy to get performance on the table, but in any case they still gave you the best in factory log heads to work with. Good luck :nod:
 
I don't know why someone would have bothered to put studs in those holes and cut them off, the holes are blind.
 
"... put a Autolite 2100 on my 200 with a Large Log Head..."
I C U have 1 resource. Have U cked the above(tech archive) the 2nd mentioned?

C the '2v Direct Mount'? A pic of a "good one" and worth consideration if explaining the above worries...
center of the page or 5th pic down:

ci/LogMods.html
 
:unsure: Do yourself a real big favor before you start drilling those cut off bolts/studs.Get a good set of LEFT HAND drill bits to work with.A lot of times the heat generated by drilling will break loose the remains of the bolts/studs and they will back out with the brill bit,Use the penetrating oil also.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
:unsure: One other thing if your drilling out those studs / bolts with the head on the engine block, tape off the carb base hole of the head real well to keep any stray metal chips or fragments from getting into the log. If you take the head off sometime in the future check those combustion chamber CC's so you know your compression ratio. On the 2V to 1V adapters some have opened up the log head opening from the 1 3/4 inch to 2 to 2 1/8 inch for even better flow. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
woodbutcher":1xb3a3qj said:
:unsure: Do yourself a real big favor before you start drilling those cut off bolts/studs.Get a good set of LEFT HAND drill bits to work with.A lot of times the heat generated by drilling will break loose the remains of the bolts/studs and they will back out with the brill bit,Use the penetrating oil also.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

good advice. amazon has several sets of screw and bolt extractor kits you should look into;

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ez+out+bolt+ ... b_ss_i_2_6

also you can find some good tap and die sets if you need those as well;

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tap+and+die+ ... _ss_i_1_15

prices are reasonable, remember that better quality usually means higher prices, but depending on how much you use them, they should last a long time.
 
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