Starting my build very soon

62Ranchero200

Famous Member
Greetings Ford Six Fans:

FINALLY ... should be receiving my 250 short block from the machine shop very soon, perhaps even this coming Saturday.

The short block includes 300 rods, custom forged pistons (zero deck height, ~9.6:1 static CR), ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, statically and dynamically balanced rotating assembly, early timing chain, and a Clay Smith 274/274/108H cam. To complement this will be a CI aluminum head with 1.6 adjustable rockers, CI intake and headers, Holley "500 CFM" 2 bbl carb, and DUI. Drivetrain will be 2500-3000 stall TCI "Breakaway" torque converter, C-4, light duty six cylinder rear end with 3.50 gears.

I just received the last of the major parts that I will need to assemble the engine:

https://imageshack.com/i/ngl4gzj

https://imageshack.com/i/jnwbdqj

https://imageshack.com/i/mqxnhpj

Will post photos of the build as it progresses.

Bob the Builder
 
Can't wait to see how this goes! I got a '65 Ranchero that I just got my 250 for, not gonna do as much as you are, but looking forward to hearing how yours performs.

Boedy
 
After a three week delay due to breaking my back ( ! ), I finally picked up the 250 short block from the machine shop yesterday. Machinist was kind enough to paint the block while it was clean and hot - said the paint would adhere better that way.

Front view:

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img826/1390/wbpl.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Notice how there is approximate zero deck height with the custom RaceTek (formerly JE) pistons and 300 rods. The block was bored .020 over and decked .030.

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img600/4200/ygn1.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Low angle view shows just how close to zero the deck height is.

[IMG=http://imageshack.com/a/img7/12/vjqp.jpg][/IMG]Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Mains view shows ARP main studs and rod big-end pads where material was removed to balance rotating assembly.

Bob the Builder
 
Sounds like a great build and combination! Should make good power...just wondering how the 108 centerline will idle. Please let us know. Also you may already know from other posts on this forum, but you will probably have a clearance issue when installing the oil pump because you have main studs. One of the studs will interfere with the pump housing. I solved this my grinding the needed clearance on the oil pump.
 
Gene Fiore":2fgjmpuu said:
Sounds like a great build and combination! Should make good power...just wondering how the 108 centerline will idle. Please let us know. Also you may already know from other posts on this forum, but you will probably have a clearance issue when installing the oil pump because you have main studs. One of the studs will interfere with the pump housing. I solved this my grinding the needed clearance on the oil pump.

Maybe I take the CI camshaft footnotes too literally, but the notes for this cam described "lopey idle" (as opposed to rough idle, which is worse, right?) and "good vacuum". So I'm hopeful about the cam. The converter will help a lot with the idle, right?

Thank you for the reminder about the oil pump clearance issue.

Bob
 
62Ranchero200":2t3eci5j said:
Gene Fiore":2t3eci5j said:
Sounds like a great build and combination! Should make good power...just wondering how the 108 centerline will idle. Please let us know. Also you may already know from other posts on this forum, but you will probably have a clearance issue when installing the oil pump because you have main studs. One of the studs will interfere with the pump housing. I solved this my grinding the needed clearance on the oil pump.

Maybe I take the CI camshaft footnotes too literally, but the notes for this cam described "lopey idle" (as opposed to rough idle, which is worse, right?) and "good vacuum". So I'm hopeful about the cam. The converter will help a lot with the idle, right?

Thank you for the reminder about the oil pump clearance issue.

Bob
Yes and yes! I've wondered since I built mine if the 108 would have been a better choice so anxious to hear how your build turns out. Keep us informed! (y)
 
So far, have installed the new oil pump, timing cover, and new harmonic balancer. The oil pump itself fit without any clearance grinding, but the main studs make it impossible to start one of the oil pump pickup bolts with the oil pump body installed, so I had to install the oil pump pickup to the oil pump first. Since the oil pump drive shaft would fall out anyway while rotating the engine block (upside-down to rightside-up) as I work on it, I left the shaft out for now. Hope that it isn't too difficult to install it with long-nose needle-nose pliers.

Painting many parts now, i.e. oil pan, water pump, etc. Going with studs for the oil pan to better locate the gasket and for better sealing.

Plan to drop the short block in and make sure it mates up with the bellhousing and motor mounts, then assemble the top end in-chassis (easier with the lighter weight aluminum head, three piece headers and mini-starter).

Thanks
Bob
 
There should be a sure clip on the oil pump drive shaft (distribitor end) to hold it in place. though the drive will work without it sometimes when you pull the distributor out the shaft will come out too and then drop down beside the oil pump. :nod:
 
@Bubba,

I didn't see any sure clip when I took the factory original 250 apart about a year ago. Can you send me a photo of one? Do you know where I can get one?

Thanks
Bob
 
62 Ranchero sometimes people will take them off and toss them, and if they are not set with enough clearance they will also wear and then break. I have also seen the shaft installed upside down on a couple engines during tear down. They are like an internal lock washer or sometimes called an anti shake washer with little barb'es in the hole to grab on the shaft, they will slide on easy in one direct only. You install drive shaft in oil pump then bolt it down first check and set the retainer washer height so that its just below the blocks distribor hole (bottom side) about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. These are used on many Ford engines of all sizes below is picture of a V8 shaft the clips are the same. I learned the importance of that clip and having an oil pressure gauge or low pressure light that is working the hard way, about 1966 lost an engine in a 27 T bucket build. Good luck :nod:

http://macsautoparts.com/images/400/C1A ... A_pJPG.JPG
 
@Bubba,

I looked at the oil pump drive shaft from the 250 and it seems identical on both ends. The only difference I can see is that on one end the wear pattern (shiny metal) is about 1/2" long, while on the other end the wear pattern is about 3/4" long. Does it matter which way I install the drive shaft (which end is up)? If so, how do I tell which end should be up?

Thanks
Bob
 
Some shafts have a more pointed tip to help the distributor go in, if they are both the same then the one with the 3/4 wear mark was the one that went into the distributor.
 
If you do decide to install that clip onto your pump drive shaft, many people install it to where it is on the bottom side of the support boss inside the engine, that way if you ever remove the distributor it doesn't pull the shaft out of the pump with the distributor. Its a real pain to reinstall the distributor and the shaft at the same time and have it engage into the pump.
 
CNC-Dude":2tgjvhu6 said:
If you do decide to install that clip onto your pump drive shaft, many people install it to where it is on the bottom side of the support boss inside the engine, that way if you ever remove the distributor it doesn't pull the shaft out of the pump with the distributor. Its a real pain to reinstall the distributor and the shaft at the same time and have it engage into the pump.

@CNC-Dude,

I've read many times that it is recommended to pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive shaft with a drill, to test the oil pump and to prime the oiling system before starting the engine for the first time.

This must change the alignment between the oil pump drive shaft and the distributor. Is it a problem to re-align the oil pump drive shaft and distributor when re-installing the distributor?

If you're going to spin the oil pump drive shaft with a drill, then there's no reason to worry about the alignment up to that point, right?

Thanks
Bob
 
Its a lot trickier to reinstall the drive rod from the topside through the distributor hole since it is basically a deep recessed pocket and produces more difficulty to insert the rod into the oil pump. Especially with the distributor boss being at an angle. It can just introduce an unexpected challenge if your not prepared for it.
 
On topic:

If the diz/oil pump drive should happen to fall into the crankcase :unsure: , removing the fuel pump will usually let you simply retrieve with a magnet stick :roll: ... .

have fun
 
That clip being on the drive shaft on the underside of the boss can also prevent that scenario as well.
 
You guys are thinking of Ford V8's. On the small six. A clip like you guys are describing won't work. Everything is enclosed. Some drive shafts are cut for a clip that just applies pressure to the inside of the distributor or the oil pump to hold it in place. Personally, I like the drive shaft to hold in the distributor and not the oil pump because for what I'm doing, I like to check the wear on the drive shaft. As far as installing or taking the drive shaft out of the oil pump, I use a thin vinyl tubing that fits the shaft snug and push a rod inside it to release it once I have it in the oil pump. Definately be careful not the loose the drive shaft.
 
The distributor gears sit on top of the block boss on V8's also, and have a tendency to adhere to the inside of the gear when you remove them from the engine. Its just an annoyance if you aren't expecting it to come out if you remove the distributor for any reason. And for someone that has never done it before, it just adds extra challenges to an otherwise simple appearing task.
 
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