Turbo 300

P

palumbotruckbully

New member
I have a 300 out of a 1988 f150. I would like to tear this engine down and start from scratch with a turbo. It would be a weekend cruiser, looking for dependability. I don't think I would want to go more than 10lbs. My budget is $4500 for all machine work, turbo, bov, wastegate, and engine internals. I already have a HD exhaust manifold, an Offy C intake, and a Holley Sniper EFI system (part 550-551K). These are not included in the budget. I can fab all the pipe needed to route the turbo. Can this be done? I am looking for someone who has done this or something similar to give a me an itemized list of what I would need. Machine work, which turbo + accessories, what engine internals I should buy new and what I can salvage from the old motor. What I should do vs. let the machine shop do (where I can save money doing things myself). I would probably go with the cam Pmuller has suggested from crower.

Let me know what you guys think.
 
The head is first. The finished chamber volume determines the piston dish volume.

Also the head needs to be inspected and Magnafluxed for cracks.

I'm assuming you will be doing the port work yourself and that you are good with a long nose diegrinder and burrs?
 
Yes, I don't have much experience porting heads but I have experience with a die grinder and have all the burrs needed to do the work myself. I port matched the heads on my older (86) 300, that is about the extent of experience I have with head work.
 
Good enough.

In order to get the EFI head to flow at low valve lifts the chambers need to be modified to unshroud the valves.
Here are two good examples.
viewtopic.php?p=614503#p614503
viewtopic.php?p=599338#p599338
This also gives you the option to use the larger 1.84"/160" or 1.94"/1.60" Chevy valves.

The EFI head valves are shorter than the 1984 and earlier carb heads, 4.75" versus 4.81"
The Chevy valves are 4.91" in length which allows a taller installed height for the valve springs opening up the spring selection.
The taller valves may require the pedestal mount rocker arms to be shimmed upward and longer pushrods will be needed in return.

It is up to you how far and how muck work you want to do to get better port flow out of the head.

Most of your time will be spent on the head.

How much boost would you like to run?
 
So what I'm understanding from your replies is basically hog out material where the soap stone marks are. This is an old head from a 86' carbed 300. I know they are different but I will be practicing on this one so I can get a feel for what the final product should look like.
Things I'm going for here:
1. Hog out bowl area so valves are unshrouded.
2. Make a floor on exhaust side of head
3. on intake valve side take out some material to smooth out material below the valve seat.

If I'm wrong on any of this or I misunderstood let me know.

Thanks, I appreciate the help so far.
 
The 3rd photo is not showing.

For the combustion chambers, you bolt the head to the block and scribe the cylinder bore circle on to the head surface.
The chamber walls on the spark plug side are ground out to the scribe line.

[image]https://www.dropbox.com/s/u5c8ham4zzzg9mj/polished%20chamber%201%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1[/image]

You only take as much material needed off the port walls to make the walls smooth.

Here is a good example of the work below the intake valve seat.
Thin the valve guide boss but leave a little bridge behind the guide as shown.

[image]https://www.dropbox.com/s/x853ry552te3led/IMG_1988.jpg?raw=1[/image]
 
palumbotruckbully":dfwt5juy said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1bFrTQLHe7dVFPaZ7

how does this look?

Obviously have to work on tool control, but is it the right idea?
Click to expand...
Yes, you are heading in the right direction.
From this point I would finish using a sandpaper roll or cone on a mandrel in the die grinder.
 
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