Another 4.9 turbo

Inline4_9

New member
First time poster, long time lurker. So as the title says im planning on building a turbo setup for my 300. Its currently in a 96 f150 5 speed, so I already have the maf system. The parts list currently is
Hx35 turbo
Cheap eBay intercooler
24# injectors, unless anyone thinks 19# will be enough
Possibly a bigger maf sensor.
The questions i have are
1) I have access to a 2000 ford explorer with the 4.0, so 19# injectors and maf sensor to match. Will this work or do I need the 24s?
2) Im only planning on 5-8lbs of boost, will the stock maf system be able to compensate or am I completely wasting my time?
I've been reading through the forums, however being a 96 maf system I was hoping to get away with a little more than the sd guys as far as computer trickery.
Thanks
 
24# with the stock pressure on the rail will work for low boost. Not sure how big your maf is but a stock one should work if they are the same size as the mustang. I typically use one from a lightning though
 
Thats always a good choice. Ive pegged the stock maf on that rigs. On low boost its no big deal but having a bigger range of voltage is better for tuning
 
So i guess i will try with the stock maf and see how it goes, can anyone post a picture of their oil feed setup? Hopefully starting on the build in a week or so.
 
Here's mine.
M3IyeUm.jpg


PYSdHKi.jpg
 
clintonvillian":33a4bpn1 said:
Okay man, give us the run down on this motor....

So, I bought a 1994 donor truck for $700 to get an engine for my project. As the truck was a runner, I could test drive and evaluate the engine before buying it. The seller admitted that the rad had a leak that he addressed with Bar's Leaks. Okay, so the test drive around the block went okay, but for the steering pump being so loud that you could hardly hear anything else. The plan was to drive it home 250 miles over the Hope Princeton Hwy. As I got up to Allison mountain pass it boiled over big time. I put more water in it and limped along a few miles, but it kept overheating so I called a tow truck to take it the rest of the way home (125 miles) as I would have had another climb over Sunday Summit. When home, I found that the coolant was not circulating at all. So when dismantling the truck I took the bottom tank off the rad to discover that the core was totally plugged with Bar's Leaks. The engine also was a replacement engine from, I assume, an auto wrecker, so I have no Idea how many miles it had on it.

Fast forward to my engine guru friend who took the engine to go through it to see what it needed in anticipation of turbocharging it. I expect a relatively mild turbo job with a stock spec engine and 8 psi boost, give or take. Although Ford 300 sixes generally have a good reputation for durability, I also read on the internet that they are susceptible to cracks in the combustion chambers and piston skirts. So after the overheating, I'm expecting bad news, maybe a cracked head, needs a rebore and crank grind etc.. Well it turns out all the news is good. It's a standard bore only worn half a thou, the crank is standard and no damage, the cam and lifters good, the head did not show any cracks when checked with dye penetrant and the head has been worked on before as it has the valve guides sleeved. Looks like no machine work required, just a light hone to restore the cross hatch and it should be good. I'm a happy camper!

So to cope with the turbo went with new Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, new timing set with aluminum cam gear, high volume oil pump, ARP rod bolts and head studs and new rod and main bearings. I also cleaned up the ports and combustion chambers to remove potential hot spots, unshroud the valves and lower the CR a bit. I checked the engine date code after doing this and found that it was not the original engine in the truck, but was manufactured May 1995 and I'm pretty sure the original pistons were Hypereutectic un damaged.

For the valve train I kept the stock cam, lifters, rockers and valves. I swapped the springs for used ones from an older 1978 engine and used non rotator exhaust keepers from the older engine as the older springs are longer. This raised the seat pressure a bit.

o0VGm9K.jpg


As the engine is going in my 1948 Chev coupe, I'm having fun with it by adapting a GMC valve cover and an Aussiespeed intake. I will make an adabler plate to mount a throttle body from a 302HO. The turbos are KKK K14s from Iveco Daily truck diesels that were surplus. I mounted them directly to the two EFI front manifolds.

The project is unfinished so there is still much to do. Machining the intake for injectors, turbo piping to intercooler and wiring it all up to Microsquirt 3 all yet to be completed.
 
jgregg13":qbklv1bx said:
clintonvillian":qbklv1bx said:
Okay man, give us the run down on this motor....

So, I bought a 1994 donor truck for $700 to get an engine for my project. As the truck was a runner, I could test drive and evaluate the engine before buying it. The seller admitted that the rad had a leak that he addressed with Bar's Leaks. Okay, so the test drive around the block went okay, but for the steering pump being so loud that you could hardly hear anything else. The plan was to drive it home 250 miles over the Hope Princeton Hwy. As I got up to Allison mountain pass it boiled over big time. I put more water in it and limped along a few miles, but it kept overheating so I called a tow truck to take it the rest of the way home (125 miles) as I would have had another climb over Sunday Summit. When home, I found that the coolant was not circulating at all. So when dismantling the truck I took the bottom tank off the rad to discover that the core was totally plugged with Bar's Leaks. The engine also was a replacement engine from, I assume, an auto wrecker, so I have no Idea how many miles it had on it.

Fast forward to my engine guru friend who took the engine to go through it to see what it needed in anticipation of turbocharging it. I expect a relatively mild turbo job with a stock spec engine and 8 psi boost, give or take. Although Ford 300 sixes generally have a good reputation for durability, I also read on the internet that they are susceptible to cracks in the combustion chambers and piston skirts. So after the overheating, I'm expecting bad news, maybe a cracked head, needs a rebore and crank grind etc.. Well it turns out all the news is good. It's a standard bore only worn half a thou, the crank is standard and no damage, the cam and lifters good, the head did not show any cracks when checked with dye penetrant and the head has been worked on before as it has the valve guides sleeved. Looks like no machine work required, just a light hone to restore the cross hatch and it should be good. I'm a happy camper!

So to cope with the turbo went with new Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, new timing set with aluminum cam gear, high volume oil pump, ARP rod bolts and head studs and new rod and main bearings. I also cleaned up the ports and combustion chambers to remove potential hot spots, unshroud the valves and lower the CR a bit. I checked the engine date code after doing this and found that it was not the original engine in the truck, but was manufactured May 1995 and I'm pretty sure the original pistons were Hypereutectic un damaged.

For the valve train I kept the stock cam, lifters, rockers and valves. I swapped the springs for used ones from an older 1978 engine and used non rotator exhaust keepers from the older engine as the older springs are longer. This raised the seat pressure a bit.

o0VGm9K.jpg


As the engine is going in my 1948 Chev coupe, I'm having fun with it by adapting a GMC valve cover and an Aussiespeed intake. I will make an adabler plate to mount a throttle body from a 302HO. The turbos are KKK K14s from Iveco Daily truck diesels that were surplus. I mounted them directly to the two EFI front manifolds.

The project is unfinished so there is still much to do. Machining the intake for injectors, turbo piping to intercooler and wiring it all up to Microsquirt 3 all yet to be completed.

What are the flange thicknesses on the Aussie Intake?
 
clintonvillian":285qunax said:
Also are you drilling the Aussie intake for injectors?

Yes, that's the plan. And I have a piece of fuel rail extrusion to machine as well. I also have a used MS3 box that I hope will work to manage it all as I understand that the EECIV is not so easy to make work with boost.

clintonvillian":285qunax said:
What are the flange thicknesses on the Aussie Intake?

0.458 +/-0.005
 
So the truck is up and running, fuel mileage and power have both increased. Now I have a few more questions, I ended up using 24# injectors from a Lincoln mkviii, and I am maxing out at about 5psi at wot in 4th gear. Now at part throttle and under 5psi the truck runs great, but when I really get into it, it sputters almost like a bad miss. At first I thought maybe I was experiencing spark "blow out", so I double checked all of my ignition system, and put in one step colder ngk plugs and reduced the gap to about .030, and still the same issue. The fuel pump has recently been tested at the lab that I work at, and it has plenty of flow. I plan to get a boost reference fpr soon, but if that is not the issue then I would rather spend that money elsewhere first. The only other issue the truck has, is that if I am to drive it long enough for everything to warm up, and shut it off at a gas station or something, if I try to start it back up before everything cools off, I have to crank it for much longer than usual, and it has a bad misfire for a few minutes before settling down. If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.
 
Are you retarding the ignition timing during boost?
You should be taking out about 1 degree of timing for each lb of boost.

When you stop the truck the engine compartment heat is boiling the fuel in the fuel rail.

It would really help you tune the engine if you had an Air/fuel ratio meter.
 
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