59 ford f100 wont start

Hello all looking for some advice for my 59 f100 with 223ci engine that wont start. Truck was starting and driving okay until I put on a brand new carb i picked up from mikes carburetor.com . Truck started fine after install. I removed plug on intake and attached vacuum gauge to tune the carb. Truck started chugging and eventually died. Took gauge off and attempted to start truck up, just turns over but no fire. I pulled the plugs and they were SUPER black. I put the old carb on and new plugs today and it still doesnt fire up. I grounded plug to bolt on motor and I am seeing a yellow spark (weak spark?).

I then replaced parts with new cap,rotor,wires, points, condenser, and coil. Adjusted points to .025. I pulled distributor today, hand cranked cylinder 1 to TDC, and positioned the rotor a little before cylinder 1 on the distributor. Im assuming im TDC on the compression stroke since both valves were closed.

Fuel filter before carb was completely full. I disconnected and put a gauge at the end and it reads 6psi. This seems high. I notice the fuel filter isnt filling up completely full after cranking the engine.

I sprayed some carb cleaner down the carb and pumped throttle to get some fuel down carb but not firing up.

Compression test with cold engine are:
Cold compression test results:
1 - 150
2 - 155
3 - 155
4 - 140
5 - 165
6 - 180

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!

Video: Spark I'm getting with coil wire grounded to valve cover bolt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCa3ZMb-syI

Below are all the basic tune up settings for a 1959 Ford 223 Six and the order of doing a tune up that I have used for decades for the quickest route to a great tune up. Base timing is 4 degrees BTDC and idel RPM is 450. Good luck

These are the Basic tune up specs for a stock 1959 Ford 223 Six

1. Plugs are gapped at .035
2. Basic Point gap setting is .025 to get it running for optimal performance and economy set points to 36 degrees dwell
3. Base timing is set to 4 degrees BTDC.
4. With the Engine warmed up good the intake and exhaust valve lash is set to .015 H
5. Mixture setting is set at lean best idle i.e. Engine warmed up good then Tuned to Highest RPM next the mixture screw is then turned in 1/4 turn.
5. Curb Idle RPM is set to 450 RPM with engine warmed up good for a manual trans with the air cleaner installed, (setting is 450 for an auto trans with it in drive with emergency brake set.

Cold Cranking Compression Test should be a minimum of 120 PSI.

Fuel pump test 3.5 to 4.5 PSI pressure.

The Load O Matic Distributor timing advance cruve should map at these amounts.
500 RPM 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 at inches vacuum of .50
1000 RPM 8 1/4 to 9 1/4 at inches vacuum of 1.8
1500 RPM 11 3/4 to 13 at inches vacuum of 3.8
2000 RPM 14 1/2 to 15 3/4 at inches vacuum of 6.0

It's also important to have clean tight wiring and ground conections plus a battery that's at its full charge.

The modern fuel pumps they offer for the 223's have a monster output. I found that the mfr data indicated an output of up to 7.5 lbs.
That's waaay too much for a Holley 1904, especially if the fuel inlet fitting has been replaced with the one that comes in the rebuild kit. At that point, you should not attempt to allow more than 2.5 lbs pressure into the float chamber. Anymore than that will overwhelm the float and flood out the carb immediately.
On my '55 Courier with 223 I-block 6, I tried several different pressure regulators at different times. Each time one blew up, I replaced it with different one. After about the 5th one, I scrapped the regulators altogether and installed a fuel bypass filter in the line ahead of the carb and put an orifice in the line that connects to the carb so that fuel backpressure would build up in the line and redirect excess fuel into the bypass line. Installed a return fuel line all the way back to gas tank. Required welding a 5/16 piece of tubing at the gas tank.

I take it that you are talking about one of those brand new replacement type carburators they sell now to swap out the old Holley 1904???
Is the vaccum configured so that it will work with your old Load-O-Matic distributor, or is it "convertible" somehow? That is something that should be investigated before putting it back on.