Rocker Arm Assembly - Tips on Disassembly?

I've got just about everything taken apart on my 250, but the rocker arm assembly is giving me some trouble. I've had the entire thing submerged in parts cleaning solvent (basically kerosene) for several weeks and I periodically try to move the arms and pedestals to take it apart. So far, I've only succeeded in freeing up the two end arms. Is there a secret to working those pedestals free? Use a better solvent instead? Scrap the whole effort and try to find a replacement assembly?

TIA
-Mike

One end of the assembly in question:
 
U soaked, may B the solvent way not strong enuff?

Try puttin it in & rubbin all over w/a brush while submerged. Or likewise held in hand, braced on the bench and w/other alternate btw the brush and a cana brake clean sprayed on. Drop can, p/u brush, apply to rockers/shaft. Repeat till clean...?

It may B so dark now U can't C the roll pin on the end. I think 1 goes thru shaft & a thin silver (as thin asa flimsy 'body washer') bent into a slight "C" in the middle but flat on the ends is behind that. Once these 2 are removed everything (pedestals, tension/positioning springs, rockers - slide off. I made sure to keep mine in order (laid out on permanent positioning board, labeled w/perm ink 1 - 12 right on the clean ones). Sometimes they don't slide easy. The tolerances are shot, burs, scored rod, galling. BUT...
Ya gotta clean better 1st. Then I'd disassemble. Follow w/final cleaning so as to inspect for re-use (or not). There are lill oil passages in the rockers, onea da alu stands hasa oil passage, the insidea da shaft must B cleaned/outside inspected. I hada buff mine up w/an emery cloth (still w.in tolerances)... Keep talkin, 's what we're here for~

Hope @ 3 posts it's not too late ta say
.............W E L C O M E !!!
 
Excessive wear. Time to get a new set of rocker arms.
If you have the $$ get a 1.6 set for increased performance.
However with adjustable rocker arms you will also need a set of pushrods to mate with the setup.
On your present set, you could apply a little heat from a propane torch to expand the pedestals for ease of removal. good luck.
 
Does anyone have the Ford part numbers for the adjustable 1.5 and 1.6 rocker arm assemblies?

I'm not sure what's on my engine.
They're hard to make out, but I see DZDE-6531-A1A...??? maybe
 
Like most of the stock 170, 200's and 250's six'es your 1970's part number rocker arms are the non ajustable type and 1.5 to 1 ratio as those made from 1966 to 1983. The early engines are the only ones that came stock with adjustable rocker arms in 1.5 to 1 ratio installed from 1960 to about 1965 on the 144, 170, & a few of the first 200's six'es, these are also a popular swap so sometimes you will find them on newer engines they also require different push rods to go with them. The 1.6 to 1 adjustable rockers are custom made you can find them at V.I. https://www.vintageinlines.com or Rocker Arms Unlimted. http://rockerarms.com V. I. & RAU can also supply stock rebuilt rocker arm sets or RAU can rebuild yours too. There are also a few others that have stock type rebuilt's. There are also the 1.65 to 1 Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms. There are new rocker arm shafts available at a reasonable price and also replacement rocker arm bushings if you want to rebuild yours (you would need a press) or you can have that done or buy new rocker arms if yours are worn to much. For even more info on Rocker Arms Options (see the below link). Best of luck (y) :nod:

Rocker Arm Tech
https://fordsix.com/ci/RockerOptions.html
 
Hi, all the early engines came with solid lifters, adjustable rocker arms, and cupped pushrods. Any old set in set in good condition will work. Or, as mentioned, a new set in the 1.5-1 ratio or the 1.6-1 ratio for more valve lift. You will need cupped pushrods if you decide to go with adjustable rockers. You can use a hydraulic cam and lifter set with the adjustable rockers, no problem. Vintage Inlines sells adjustable 1.6-1 aftermarket rockerarm sets. Engine builders would usually recommend checking valve to piston clearance when you increase valve lift. I would like to hear if any of the guys had clearance issues when going to 1.6-1 rockers. Many of the engines after @ 1966 came with hydraulic lifters and non adjustable rocker arms. I remember seeing some guys finding rebuilt rocker shafts ready to use. You should also get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook to learn more about your Ford Six. Good luck
 
I have the 'Ford Six Falcon' book...
I couldn't find any Part # listed for the 1.5:1 stock adjustable ones...

My engine is new to me.
It only has about 4k miles on the rebuild. Super clean inside.
But I bought it without hearing it run. Dumb move.
It had a broken thrust plate, which thanks to this forum, I now know why. No thrust washer/spacer!

As I understand it, the '68 3.3L didn't come with adjustable rocker arms.
Whom ever built the engine added it. I just don't know the ratio.

I don't know if it has been "zero decked" or if the head has been milled.
I does still have new (overbored .030) dished pistons.
Cupped push rods ect...

Why dished pistons is the question I keep asking myself. ???
With a 260/260 .44" lift cam, I'd think flat tops would've been the way to go.

I will check Piston to Valve clearance when my new cam gets here anyway.
Just thought the ratio would be good to know also.
 
I'd like the Yella Terra rockers at some point, just not now.
It's been a LONG summer project, and I'm about out of time and money.

T-5 swap, "While you're in there" moments, parts ordering, snail mail, ebay, parts availability, set backs galore...like breaking stuff.

And as soon as I get this thing up and running, which I will come hell or high water...
Vintage Inlines will call me and tell me my aluminum head/intake is available :roll:
 
The stock Ford adjustable rockers are all 1.5 Ratio and the 1.6 Ratio are custom made by modding the 1.5 rockers. Without seeing what you have I can’t say with any certainty, but at least you have adjustable‘s with the min. of 1.5’s . :nod:
 
Hi, the picture in your first post are non adjustable rocker arms.
Now I can't figure out where you are going.
Can you clarify all this?
All this is spelled out in the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook.
Good luck
Sorry wakjob, you confused me by jumping on this post.
I'll try to sort out your situation later. Good luck
 
Opus / Mike?
Its been 3 days, how's it goin?
Get it cleaned?
Do Not dissasemble w/o keeping order per cylinder...

Y do this? clean up & inspection as U re-do the entire motor?
 
OpusTheTailGunner":3nuxw3pg said:
I've got just about everything taken apart on my 250, but the rocker arm assembly is giving me some trouble. I've had the entire thing submerged in parts cleaning solvent (basically kerosene) for several weeks and I periodically try to move the arms and pedestals to take it apart. So far, I've only succeeded in freeing up the two end arms. Is there a secret to working those pedestals free? Use a better solvent instead? Scrap the whole effort and try to find a replacement assembly?

TIA
-Mike

One end of the assembly in question:

After you heat up the rocker arm mounting towers a little you can used a block of wood and hammer to slide them off. Like almost all of the stock 200's and 250's six'es your rocker arms are also the non ajustable type with a 1.5 to 1 ratio these were made from about 1965 to ending of small six production in 1983. You can find the rocker assembles at V.I. https://www.vintageinlines.com or Rocker Arms Unlimted. http://rockerarms.com V. I. & RAU can also supply the stock adjustable type rocker arms that are also 1.5 to 1 ratio or the custom made 1.6 to 1 ratio adjustable rocker arms in rebuilt rocker arm sets or RAU can rebuild your current rocker set too. There are also a few others that will have stock type rebuilt' rocker arms sets. There are new rocker arm shafts easily available at auto parts houses or at on line sites at a reasonable price of around $40.00 or less and also replacement rocker arm bushings at a few places if you want to try rebuild your set (you would need a press to install new bushings) or you can have that done or buy new rocker arms if yours are worn to much. Occasionally site members have good used sets available for sale in the small six parts for sale section at the bottom of all the forums. For even more info on all the Rocker Arm Options (see the below link). Best of luck (y) :nod:

Rocker Arm Tech
https://fordsix.com/ci/RockerOptions.html
 
Hi all,

Sorry for the delayed response. I brought the block and crank to a local machine shop this weekend for initial inspection and rework and decided to throw the rocker arm assembly in just to see if the machinist had any interesting ideas. He agreed that the "pedestals and rocker arms ought to just slide right off", but 130K miles of baked oil sludge was making that easier said than done. He believed the pedestals were aluminum and advised against trying to apply heat. Since they've got considerably more aggressive chemicals in their shop, they're going to have a go at it and let me know if they succeed. If they do, I'll ask what the trick was!

Once I've got the block back and know what I'm dealing with, I plan to start sketching out the piston/valvetrain options. I had planned on reusing the original 1.5 rocker arm assembly, but if I lose a few parts in the disassembly process, I may have to reconsider the 1.6 option.

-Mike
 
rather than list it all out I wonder if U have seen the i6 specialist "the Ford 6 Performance Handbook" which lists some machining considerations, CR, cam, etc
AND
goes onto a phased "drive while U rest0mod" approach w/these vehicles? Might help in ur order to the company U left the motor with. Talk abt costs and options rather than the other way around (they dictate what U will get & pay). If not:
https://www.vintageinlines.com/short-block
see 4th row 2nd item.
One thing 'the Handbook' (& this ford6 site) recommends is the APR company's rod bolts...
:nod:
 
Yep, got a copy of the Falcon 6 Handbook right here by the desk. Between that and looking through this forum, it's got me thinking about a few ways to get a little more power while still building a "driving around town" engine. Last winter I found a used head from a 1980 Granada and will at least have that adapted for a 2-barrel carb. Before I start looking at other options, I want to understand whether the cylinders need to be overbored and whether the block needs any material removed from the surface. Lavron's posted experience about having to order new pistons after getting the block back from the machinist was a good lesson I'm glad not to have to learn. Once I have the block back and know what I'm working with, I reckon I've got a few different pathways for raising the compression ratio above the stock number (around 7.5 near as I can figure).

Lots of questions lined up for the experts on this site, but I'm taking it nice and slow.

-Mike
 
"...a used head from a 1980 ..."
excellent (log cap., hardened seats, valves...

"...adapted for a 2-barrel carb..."
now if ur talkin bout the 'direct mount 2v' now is the time
to get movin on that. Locating a quality shop is paramount. R U near
one of the listed known guys?:
viewforum.php?f=50
the 7th pic down, or middle of page (open log, not even the adapter mounted) is correct:
ci/LogMods.html#2VC
we C plenty here 'in" correct...
 
OpusTheTailGunner":2tshi0s3 said:
Hi all,

Sorry for the delayed response. I brought the block and crank to a local machine shop this weekend for initial inspection and rework and decided to throw the rocker arm assembly in just to see if the machinist had any interesting ideas. He agreed that the "pedestals and rocker arms ought to just slide right off", but 130K miles of baked oil sludge was making that easier said than done. He believed the pedestals were aluminum and advised against trying to apply heat. Since they've got considerably more aggressive chemicals in their shop, they're going to have a go at it and let me know if they succeed. If they do, I'll ask what the trick was!

Once I've got the block back and know what I'm dealing with, I plan to start sketching out the piston/valvetrain options. I had planned on reusing the original 1.5 rocker arm assembly, but if I lose a few parts in the disassembly process, I may have to reconsider the 1.6 option.

-Mike

Yes it's true that the the rocker arms are suppose to just slide off the rocker arm shaft because the rocker arms have some clearance so they are able to move up and down! :unsure: "But Please Understand" that the rocker arm pedestals are a totally different story they are designed to have a slight interference fit. With this tighter fit onto the rocker arm shaft they are not going to just slide off. Good luck :nod:
 
I checked out the 1.6 rocker arms before and noticed they were fairly expensive plus the cost of the push rods. I have been under the impression that this step was for a very high performance build where spending a lot more money for just a bit more power was a given. Of course I am kind of thrifty (cheap) but can't you get a big increase in power at much less cost with just a good performance cam? I expect to build a 250 for my Bronco someday when financially sensible so maybe I focus on cost too much. Also not trying to talk you out of 1.6 rockers just commenting. 250 has good torque and a built one will be a great improvement for your Mustang.
 
@chad - the quality shop question is where I am right now. I'm evaluating a local guy with the block and I plan to grill him on his familiarity with the 250 head machining/adapting. If I don't like what I hear, I'll happily travel some distance to get to one of the recommended shops on the forum list.

@bubba22349 - ok, the interference fit for the pedestals makes sense. I was able to free up all the arms and get most of them to rotate pretty freely on the shaft with a long term soak in parts cleaning fluid (aka, low aromatic kerosene), but those pedestals weren't budging even a little bit.

@bmbm40 - until the earlier post, I was just assuming I'd stick with the 1.5s and select an appropriate camshaft to work with. The Classic Inlines Rocker Arm Option page https://fordsix.com/ci/RockerOptions.html suggests there's a noticeable benefit when the 1.6 is paired with a modified log cylinder head. But as you say, that comes at a cost. I'll have to give it some thought.

-Mike
 
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