Keep I6 or Go to V8 Steering?

StarDiero75

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Howdy Guys,

So about 3 years ago I redid my front end and bought everything from Rockauto.... first mistake. Everything is shot now and I'm looking at doing it right this time with better parts. Currently both sets of ball joints are shot on both sides. Center link is original. But tie rods I believe are still ok, but those I got from Oreillys. Haven't checked yet.

So my first question is, should I go to V8 steering components or should I stick with I6? Or does it even matter? Here's a few things to note if it matters:

•Using 68 Mustang disk spindles. If I stick with I6 steering I'm getting sleeves for the tie rods. I am aware of the possible bump steer. I have talked to and asked many people about it and I've yet to speak to someone who's had issues.

•I'm doing a Shelby 1" UCA drop. I already have the kit.

•Ordered a 1" sway bar with polyurethane bushings to replace the current small one.

•Considering slightly lower springs. What do you all recommend if I'm doing the 1" UCA drop? 1" or 2" drop? I do like the california dip kind of look. But not too crazy. Its still a daily. Just something a little different. Or should I just stay stock height?

Lemme know what you all think

Thanks,
Ryan
 
I pretty much answ the same way every time: "What it the final application?"
now me? I dream of having an SCCA style chero to race the cones, carve the canyons.
It would have what U mention but a new K and R&P steering, frame stiffeners, stance
widened, flares, slightly tubed, mini roll bar in side the cab, CI/VI head, etc, etc.
The size, shape, style of the 'round body' just speak that language to me. My bronk, not so much, but
I saw several over on CB dot com. I would not want to C them in person...

so I may not be the best to answer. I say a good rest0mod needs extensive research (current
components, their capability, budget answers, up-grade capacity, sequence of operations, a
through plan) execute the plan to the end w/o change. 'S Y I asked U the Q during the motor mods
abt "other changes to the platform?" Hey, never too late to complete a 'vision' at least in idea only.
That is the guide to any additional, the rest...

So..."Y do U need/want the bent8 steer."? "Y is the current inadequate'? "How duz it all fit into the rest of the vehicle end-build"?
 
I ended up going with the V8 steering. Its beefier. The parts are much easier to find and I'm already going to V8 disk spindles. Supposedly too, having the V8 steering will also help negate bumpsteer
 
If this is for your Ranchero (and I admit I'm not too familiar with those) and the steering geometry is about the same as the Mustangs of the same year, the 68 spindles are not going to be the right geometry - the end of the steering arm is in a different location on the 65-66 spindles.

CSRP makes spindles that accommodate the single piston calipers and large hub rotor used on the later models (69-73). I just changed my 71 spindles to the CSRP units and was very surprised by how much difference it made in the quality of the drive.

The Arning drop (AKA "Shelby drop") for the upper control arms is also supposed to help.

Doing this change involves drilling 4 new holes in your shock towers (there are templates available everywhere) to move the upper control arm mounting points down an inch and, for the earlier cars, toward the back about 1/2 inch, giving you a little more caster. It also lowers the front end by 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch.
 
hi John, good 2 CU again.

Sounds like we're (I'm) a lill too late.
Many of us come here for ideas, comradeship, to save money...the last 3 for me!
I try'n avoid 'kits' as they usually are just an assembly of parts available to us all...
done by 'the typical vendors' - painted packaged posted.
Here folks can inform us abt Y/M/M of these parts so we can acquire less expensively
and have the info for future reference (1 prt in the component breaks, etc). As some 1 of
extremely limited means I could not do this w/o my friends here. Wrenchin on my own stuff
40, 50 yrs (hada superb income so skipped the '80s & '90s) as necessity, enjoying problem solving -
that is a good thing. I also feel a lill kick as I avoid the triple charges these others gouge us for. Mustang
Steve, Bronkohio, go fast for less, this site...they all form a community that has those 3 special benefits (again,
may B just for me?)...Glad you joined us ! If you want, when some1 on line sez "I bought it from..." ask abt what;s in
there. Again, its been real helpful for me for many yrs, got this rig restored w/o any kits...
 
chad":14b3cs2c said:
hi John, good 2 CU again.

Sounds like we're (I'm) a lill too late.
Many of us come here for ideas, comradeship, to save money...the last 3 for me!
I try'n avoid 'kits' as they usually are just an assembly of parts available to us all...
done by 'the typical vendors' - painted packaged posted.
Here folks can inform us abt Y/M/M of these parts so we can acquire less expensively
and have the info for future reference (1 prt in the component breaks, etc). As some 1 of
extremely limited means I could not do this w/o my friends here. Wrenchin on my own stuff
40, 50 yrs (hada superb income so skipped the '80s & '90s) as necessity, enjoying problem solving -
that is a good thing. I also feel a lill kick as I avoid the triple charges these others gouge us for. Mustang
Steve, Bronkohio, go fast for less, this site...they all form a community that has those 3 special benefits (again,
may B just for me?)...Glad you joined us ! If you want, when some1 on line sez "I bought it from..." ask abt what;s in
there. Again, its been real helpful for me for many yrs, got this rig restored w/o any kits...

I see and appreciate what you're saying.

My point is that it's important to use parts that provide the correct steering geometry. Using, for example, 68 disc brake spindles on a 65 model will work but the handling will not be good under some conditions. It's not bad enough to pose a significant safety hazard but it's not as good as it should be.

To the best of my knowledge, if you're converting to disc brakes on a 64 - 66 there are only two ways to do it right; either use original spindles and brake hardware from one of those model years (65 - 66) or use the aftermarket part I referred to. They do sell just their spindles (which is what I did since I already had and was committed to all the other 69-71 hardware) without buying all the kit hardware.

Hope this helps a little. Cheers :)
 
So i got all new steering components for a 65 Falcon V8 model. The spindles are 68s, yes. I got these 68s and 72s together at a steal of a price. If they pose to be unsatisfactory, I'll look into buying the correct spindles. But I've really yet to talk to someone that has had issues. I read about people doing the Granada swap (same geometry) on these cars and have no issues. We'll just have to see. I'm doing a bunch of stuff in the front so maybe it'll all work out.

I'm doing the Shelby drop, stiffer front sway bar, all correct 65 V8 steering with 68 outer tie rod ends, and possibly cutting the I6 coil springs slightly to get it a little lower and a little stiffer. If i don't like the way it drives, I'll look into 65 V8 disk spindles. I'm just working with what I got and trying to do it right, y'know? And considering I've yet to talk to a person with any issues, I'm gonna try and send it. Worst case, I shell out for new spindles, get a 2nd alignment, and new outer tie rods.

Thank you for caring though and wanting to see it done as properly as possible. I totally get that. If everyone I talked to said this didn't work, i wouldn't even try it and maybe save these for another project. But its just money and time, y'know lol.
 
I think John was concerned abt ur safety as well.
I've heard of these mods, know nothing abt them
as don't follow the model (more truck-like oriented).
 
65coupei6":2sn03m9i said:
You will get bumpsteer with those spindles. You may or may not notice it.
So the amount of bumpsteer I get will be so small I won't notice it? Aren't the early falcons known for having bumpsteer with their original geometry anyway?
 
Through their 1960's Ralley Racing program Ford kept on improving the Falcon's suspention system. The 1965 year model Falcon's had the best steering geometry of all the narrow chassis cars and this was carried over into the Mustangs chassis also. These much improved parts consisted of the Spindles, plus in my OPIN biggest of the Improvements was the redesigned Center Link using its much better tie Rod pivot points along with the Correct lenght matching Tie Rods, Idler Arm, and Pitmen Arm. The height position of the Spindles Steering Arms and their lenght are what is used to help control bump steering throughout the suspensions movement. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
StarDiero75":1nf6bsas said:
65coupei6":1nf6bsas said:
You will get bumpsteer with those spindles. You may or may not notice it.
So the amount of bumpsteer I get will be so small I won't notice it? Aren't the early falcons known for having bumpsteer with their original geometry anyway?
You will have it but may not realize what it is.

Under normal street driving conditions, it's not a life-threatening or safety issue and when it happens you'll be able to correct for it.

But your car will not drive/handle as well as it would if you had the correct 65-66 spindle geometry.

Just as a point of reference, I drove my '66 Mustang for 24 years with the 71 spindles (same geometry as the 68 spindles and the same bump steer characteristics) and never had an issue.

When I recently changed to the aftermarket spindles with the proper geometry I was surprised at how much of a difference - improvement - there was in the driveability/handling.

Bottom line (and my opinion) - if you have all the parts to use the 68 spindles, you should go for it using them. If at some time in the future you have the opportunity to get parts that have the correct geometry, you won't be sorry if you make the change.

Hope that helps clarify it for you :D
 
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