Autolite 2100 to Holley 2300?

Howdy guys,

I just moved into my new house and the neighbor is an awesome car guy. He ended up giving me a free Holley 2300 carb! I need to check to see if its the 350 or 500 but I'm interested in possibly putting it on the Ranchero. I know these holleys are 100% adjustable. I've been dealing with a lot of issues like running way to rich in the transition from cruise to less than WOT. My AFR gauge goes into the 10s sometimes. It feels peppy until it hits the power valve then it dumps into the 11s every time and it definitely looses power. I know theres a mod about drilling the power valve holes and puttong in set screws but I know this is a good carb and don't want to mess it up in case i mess up.

So, if this is a 350 Holley 2300, what would it take to make it work? Jet wise and all for the 200 with a 2V? I got dual out headers 2", 2V modded, DUI from Bill, Schneider 256H cam. I'm working on a vacuum leak right now but I feel like this may be a better way to go if I can full adjust the carb to work, minus having the annular boosters. Plenty of people run these carbs and don't have issues.

Thanks guys,
Ryan

ryan the best you can do is keep tuning the carb. start with the main jets, and drop the size down until you get a clean cruise. if you can, as a fine tuning tool, you can also change the air corrector jets. same with the power valve, change it to get it to open when you want. check with summit racing as they have holley tuning kits available.

Ryan, get your cruise A/F ratio to 14.5.14.75 @ 50-70 mph. Change main jets to achieve this.
Then try a WOT burst all the way to 5K & you need 12.5-12.8 A/F.
If not email me Bill

So after finally getting the car running like its supposed to today, i think I'll stick with the autolite for now. On the highway doing 60 the AFR was about 13.5ish. I'm figuring one size down will put me about 14.5ish, does that sound right? Or would you think thats a 2 step down?

one step down should get you close, two steps might be better. only a test run will tell for sure.

Theoretically, if I go from a 2.8 to a 3.25 rear gear, that would lower the load on the engine. Would that alter everything? Should I do another tune afterwards? I have a new pumpkin to drop into the Ranch next

Just measured the bores on the Holley, it's definitely a 350 CFM. So is the 2100 that much greater to have or is the 350 better?

Depends what you want out your Ranchero's combo! If you want a little more power than you sure can't beat a Holley carb. If you want decent power and a bit better fuel economy than the Autolite is the better choice. Both carb's are going to require the proper tuning after each change you make to the engines combo, the ignition systems tune, or when changing any of the other major parts. It doesn't sound like you ever finished dialing in that Autolite carb though. Good luck

The Holley flows 350 CFM, the Autolite 1.08 flows 287 CFM.
As Bubba said, the annular nozzles on the Autolite will probable help your fuel mileage.
If the Holley is too rich @ WOT it will require metering block work in PVCR orifices under the power valve.
Same with the Autolite.
Remember the Autolite can use Holley power valves.

StarDiero75":1qjcct1y said:

Theoretically, if I go from a 2.8 to a 3.25 rear gear, that would lower the load on the engine. Would that alter everything? Should I do another tune afterwards?

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Pick one, stop messing w/it, esp while doin the carb.
Stop that for now or use the T5/rear gear/tire sz on-line calculator and do it (put ina permanent R'nP) then go back to the carb work.