2V Sealing Issues

StarDiero75

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Howdy guys,

Its been awhile but life as been busy as ever hence me not being on here much. But I'm finally being able to work on the Ranchero again and finding things the aren't right. I went to adjust my valves the other day since I had the slightly loose and got tired of the tapping, quarter turn fixed that. But I pulled the carb 2V gasket and its been leaking again. The car has been getting great gas milage, like 24ish mpg, but apparently the leak was just enough to "help it". Its been acting doggy, hence the leak. Anyhow, i replaced it today and we'll see how it works. Although I'm having doubts. It didn't want to start after me letting it sit for 15 mins. Hopefully it just needs to be tightened after "seating". If this doesn't hold, anyone got any idea how to seal an aluminum adapter plate to cast iron that doesn't involve removing the head?? I tried a softer gasket this time. Next time Its getting thick cork, then I'm out. Let me have your ideas.

Thanks guys,
Ryan
 
I'd check the adapter for warpage with a straight edge as well as the mounting surface on the head.

You can true the aluminum plate by hand with a sheet of 400 grit spay adhered to a thick piece of glass.

A thin coat of copper RTV between the aluminum plate and the head might work as well.
 
:unsure: And a little trick that I learned a while ago.If you don`t have any Dykem(R)you can use poor mans lay out fluid.Black or blue magic marker.Works just fine,and rubbing alcohol removes it just fine.Another little trick with the 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.Use light oil such as 3 in1 for adding wet to it .Seems to work a bit better.ATF seems to work pretty good too.Also check carb base for flatness too.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe
Leo
 
When I can't get a seal with the thick cardboard gasket made from a pack of gasket material sold at parts stores,I use the stuff in there they call"rubberized fiber gasket material".It's pretty thick,easy to cut doesn't melt but does stick some.
I just use a grinder and cutting wheel to take the knob off and a grinder to make the "pad".It's not a perfect way to do it,but it's not a Veyron.And I think it's a waste of dollars to get a machinist to do.
I make my heads to where I can use either adapter from VI.Six holes and when the 32/36 is on,I put setscrew,with locktite in the 2100 adapter holes.
most times I can get it to seal with just the cardboard and spray copper adhesive spray.
have fun.
 
So guys I actually fixed it today. I have this wonderful old timer neighbor now who seemed to solve my probs. Just by listening he was able to tell me exactly what was wrong. A valve was just a hair too tight not letting it seat and new hotter plugs. Went from 45s to 46s. The vacuum prob I did fix. I got a cork gasket material, snugged it up good to the intake and man it sealed just great! On top of that, rven with a 256H, .420 lift cam, I'm getting about 19.5 inches on the vacuum gauge. It runs like a top.

He did give me some of that rubberized gasked you're talking about Chero. I'll use that if this stuff fails. Man im a happy camper.

Thanks guys,
Ryan
 
Good (y)
Just think about sealing a V8 intake manifold that has been ported thin...8 ports to seal at two different angles and valley to seal and add angle milling into the mix...That is what i like about the log, all the boost pressure that you want and only one spot to worry about.
 
StarDiero75":3fnyqdr3 said:
old timer...Man im a happy camper.
Thanks guys,
Ryan
That's the trick, a lill grey, may B a tooth or 2 missin, humped up back...U got a winner there.
The ol dudes all ways "got it" !!!
Ck da 1 from Odessa, hedessa TX
Each of us needs...well...a coupla outa do it...
(Them ones w/the long hair cook pretty good too, might keep onea each?)
:eek:
 
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