European oil filter & Synthetic

"...those w/o knowledge would give me guff ..."
C what I mean...
 
[offtopic]lad U use RockAuto as I don't think they add huge 'cross the national boundaries" charges, just the standard mail increase for distance. Not sure how that is accomplished as its illegal to export/import w/o meeting duties (or whatever the correct term). May B they paid for "distribution rights" (how the whole system works, only certain co.s R allowed to distribute) and all of us do in every purchase (like insurance - it's spread out among all patients)?[/offtopic]

Any stuff being imported into the UK from the USA gets slammed with a 20% tax[VAT, applied on nearly all goods in the UK anyway]
That 20% is also charged on the carriers costs as well...so it's 20% on the total cost of sending the stuff..not just the price!!
Plus, there's the ''possibility'' an extra 5% customs duty may be levied [om goods above a certain price]

RockAuto's postage costs are very reasonable....I prefer to use their Fedex option, which usually works out just a bit more than USPS anyway...but..their costs include prepayment [on arrival in UK] of VAT and duties....so they arrive at my front door with no extra costs.
Otherwise, if they come USPS, then the UK delivery contractor [usually Royal Mail, or their subsidiary] pay the taxes, theen charge me for them before they will hand over the goods...plus they charge me a 'fee' for the pleasure of collecting said taxes.

Rock's delivery charges certainly are quite reasonable when compared with the likes of NPD, for example?

I would guess that Rock make savings by not charging the customer overly much for the pleasure of packing the goods, labelling, and posting the stuff?

Either way, they have a loyal customer in yours truly....If only because of the way they list their stuff, with info like dimensions, etc.

Which helps solve problems I have, with not knowing what previous [Stateside] owners have..or have not, done? What they have used, etc.? For example, it has disc brakes up front [not drums] There seems to be a million disc brake conversion kits out there..so I had to work out which bits had been used on my car. Not being in the USA I have no familiarity with what is [vehicle-wise] familiar stuff to you guys..But, thanks to Rock's website I was able to work out that Muzzie had a Granada conversion...[Not the UK's idea of a Granada, which is a totally different kettle of fish]....So now I can order pads to suit, at about a third the cost of getting the same through a UK parts dealer.
Now I have to find out why the poor old thing creaks and groans and rattles as it goes down the road??

My old banger Mustang is not a 'prized possession', where only the most expensive stuff will do.
 
"...where only the most expensive stuff will do...."
sounds like many (well, me anyway) of us. I hate amazon (AND Jeff Bezos) but that may B another to try.

I'm wondering if U have a shop manaul? It would have exploded diagram of components to ur car. It might help w/prts sourcing.

I find even tho we use english I have difficulty with Brittish, NZ, SA, Oz, etc. We use the same wrds, they mean different things, different things are called by the same names, etc. It must B terribably difficult to source prts for you. If there is anyway I can help (legally) let me know at the below e-mail addrss (in my sig). It is published there for ALL (know him?...a good guy) to use.
:nod:
 
Thank you very much..help is always useful...

The old Muzzie is a quite nice car to drive [for an over-tall pensioner, who spent a working lifetime driving]...yup, it leaks...yup, it rattles and squeaks...
One Annoying thing about it, just discovered..I recently fitted a new water pump...the old one was getting very noisy [lost a fin as well]...now the pump is quiet, I can hear a knock which was drowned out beforehand....how annoying? [Maybe a hydraulic tappet? Can these be swapped out without having to remove other stuff..aside from the rocker cover?]
 
Alastairq":3atdcsfv said:
.....I can hear a knock which was drowned out beforehand....how annoying? [Maybe a hydraulic tappet? Can these be swapped out without having to remove other stuff..aside from the rocker cover?]
A vid would be real nice for "remote diagnosis" (never an easy thing). Ppl ask abt sounds all the time...its tough: sm speakers, analogue to digitized, ambient noises... We even get discussions around 'exhaust note" choices (nother sound Q). Bt if you can post up a vid of the motor running, no guarantee... :|

But yes, if 'top end' noise - the VC would need to come off to access. If it is there gas tank additives (my preff - pour thru the carb) would B a 1st step anyway...
 
chad":2wief0a7 said:
A vid would be real nice for "remote diagnosis" (never an easy thing). Ppl ask abt sounds all the time...its tough: sm speakers, analogue to digitized, ambient noises... We even get discussions around 'exhaust note" choices (nother sound Q). Bt if you can post up a vid of the motor running, no guarantee... :|

But yes, if 'top end' noise - the VC would need to come off to access. If it is there gas tank additives (my preff - pour thru the carb) would B a 1st step anyway...


I'm pretty sure its a hydraulic lifter [tappet?]...maybe more than one?
I had recently done an oil change [and filter wipe, like all the best garages?]...using a different oil to my normal...[a 15/40 mineral with a decent zinc content...instead of a cheaper 10/30 [with slightly less zinc] which is sold for 60's/70's V8s, etc...Anyway....Would an oil additve not be a better bet at cleaning up hydraulic tappets [lifters] than a petrol additive [which I am loathe to use....against my principles as an old car driver....I will even embrace a decent percentage of ethanol, as it will make the engine run cleaner...All of which will be counter intuitive to all you old American hands....but for which I/we have university evidence...If, that is, I can weed out all the old rubber in my car's fuel line????
Trouble is, I really ought to spend money on the car...[which I don't have?]...but I do tend to drive it mostly daily...so I am loathe to tear it down, preferring to have spent my hard-earned on this old banger rather than a nearly new . made-this-century, modern, which any sensible old fahrt would do? Still, it gives me around 23-25 miles t'gallon, which isn't so bad compared to a V8? Plus, it doesn't 'need' a fitness test or taxing....[MoT/VED, rated at zero]....therefore the compulsory costs are not too high...
I do have other motors....one as old as I am, even....which I use also...one of my nearly-moderns has hydraulic tappets too [and OHC]...and I find they tap too, when starting from cold....
I don't have a manual [relying mainly on google]...tell me, in my higgerance, are the lifters easy to extract without pulling either the head or the engine? Just planning, tis all......do I need long slim fingers? Should I butter up one of my ex-wives for the task? :D :shock:

To add...the Muzzie is a '67 200 I6, C4 autobox, sensible [for daily use] mods were already done..slightly lowered suspension, Grandad disc brakes up front, etc....to which I added one of those cheaper 'small' electronic distributors, with an MSD coil of low impedance....the car came with the wrong carb for the distributor, IE it had the all vacuum advance distributor, but the later [a copy, probably Walmart sourced?] carb...since the new dizzy was less than half the price of the correct carb, I went the dizzy route. Aside rfom that the car is standard-ish..I'm not interested in 'speed' performance...but I am interested in ability. In other words, how well it copes inmodern traffic condidions? This it does, admirably. I'm a tall booger and there arent many cars I can stretch my legs out in...the Mustang is one of those rare beasties. My other daily is a 1951 Dellow mk2 [google] very very competent, espeicaly off tarmac. But, a bit of a tight squeeze, drivng it is akin to a prolongued yoga class. 1172cc sidevalve [flathead] Ford engine and box..Chassis main tubes made from WW2 rocket bodies....so very strong, very tough, a proper sports car..not a wannabe.
 
I have used Justice Brothers oil flush for several decades with excellent results will clean up a dirty engine in two to three oil changes without any harm. I doubt you can get it over in your area and don't know if it can be shipped that far eighter. Some people used ATF also.

Personally I am not anti Alcohol fuels (Ethanol) and used in any amounts even up to 100% most of its detriments of rubber part deteriation can be easily over come by using other materials that may have a higher starting cost but then last a very very long time. My problem with it is in using corn to make it as is done here, affecting the food supply costs when Alcohol can be made out many other things and the biggest problem for me is with the government substizing it, to me this isn't really cost effective.

:beer: Excellent your Mustang is nicely modded and you made the best choice in replaceing the old Load O Matic Distributor with the much better electronic one and coil giving it even better performance and economy that's a win win for a very good Daily Driver. Yes 1967 Mustang 200 engines for sure will have the hydraulic lifters and It will also have the non adjustable rocker arms too. If you do plan to change out the lifters you will need to pull the cylinder head off there's no other way to remove all of the lifters on the small Ford Six'es. If you are going to do that then carfully inspect each of the old lifters for any excessive wear to the lifters contact base. If you see the signs of that kind of excessive wear you should also replace the camshaft too as there will also,be some cam lobe damage, once the wear goes through the lobes surface hardness the cam lobe will be wiped out quickly. I would hold off on diving that deep into that kind of job until you check out more likely causes first.

Since your engine has the non adjustable rockers and sounds as if it's still in very good running condition what you should try first that is fast and easy is to check out the condistion of the rocker arm shaft assembly they can have worn out rocker arm bushings plus worn out rocker arm shafts too. This is quite a common problem due to lack of proper oiling or from the lack of proper oil and filter Maintenance in its past so the shafts get clogged up with sludge and not allowing the rocker arms to get enough oil, it is often over looked even when an engine gets a rebuild. You can try cleaning them if they arn't to far gone but they likely need to have these rocker assembles rebuilt. if you have a few basic skills and the basic hand tools, plus a torque wrench, to work with but you also need to have the use of a press to install the bushings, for that reason many people just go for a rebuilt set. I will put a link to one of our site members recent post showing this job and also were to get these parts. Check it out I am thinking that this will also be the cause of your valve train noise, the good news is this is a simple fix that only requires the removal of the valve cover to get inside to unbolt the rocker-shaft assembly.

One other thing you can try but I doubt this is the likely cause, would be the replacement of the push rods with a little longer lenght ones this would readjusts the lifters preload maybe quieting them down. The Ford push rods in the past were available in the stock lenght as well as .060 longer or shorter. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited with some addistional info after knowing your Mustangs year model!

MustangDadDrakes 1968 200 Engine Repair
viewtopic.php?t=80979
 
Mr. bubs has written a pretty good threatis for U.
I would suggest a separate thread for all those additional points ur last post covered.
Gets a lill hard to address such divergent issues in 1 post-back...

If U f/u w/his ideas & do some head wrk at home - don't forget to address the INSIDE of
the rocker shaft (I used a long gun brush) as that is a piece of the oil path. (Wish I hada
diagram of the whole to show U). Like the water jacket, sure is interesting 2 me...

Keep talkin
 
Indeed, thread drift is a hazard.....mainly it started out because I wanted to add to the information about accessing what you lads think of as commonplace, easily found, bits? Not so in the UK...where we have our own set of common, easily found bits, which don't suit inlne sixes of the US flavour. Sure, we can get stuff...but it comes at a price! What perhaps is a commonplace engine/vehicle range in the US is considered to be a [well-off?] fella's hobby in the UK...and priced to match.
For example, an issue I have to address is the sump plug [oil drain plug]...?
I discovered a while ago mine was an 'oversize' plug...and the threads came out with it. Luckily I hve gunged it back, [just biting] to only leave an occasional drip...but...
For you guys, every corner shop sells 'oversize' plugs...1st oversize, 2nd oversisze, 3rd oversize, etc.
Well, I had to find out what 'oversize' I already had? Not easy when there is little information about 'sizes' and 'oversizes'...or that these oversizes may be to a common standard?
Cheap enough to buy [a few dollars if that]..I could get one fom Amazon...At my door it became 40 dollars or more...Not good?
So I have to resort to verniers and stuff...and am going to try to convert to a larger metric thread....as I can get a tap, and plugs to suit [M15 x1.5] for around 6 dollars, delivered too.

It really is a different world....which doesn't stop me...
 
yes, complicated, but the internet's yer friend.
Some here (me?) enjoy helping those from foreign shores
(status upped?, self esteem boost? defiantly network building).
I myself find benefit from engaging long distance. One Limmie (hope that's
not derogatory) hasa intake for 6 Keihen onan i6 motor of Brit design (TR6?, MG?)
that caught my eye fora ford 'falcon' or ThriftPower motor. Justa dream, not for a
vehicle like mine (as used today). Just something I'd like to assemble, tune, test...
:eek:
 
Yes, i can see that happening..I used to run a rear engined Skoda Rapid [1300cc 4 pot], used in a peculiarly British type of motorsport called 'trialling'..
It had 4 bike carbs on a specialist manifold..[carbs off a Honda Fireblade]....I went for 26mm chokes and a loooong inlet manifold, for higher gas speeds[therefore, greater torque]...rather than the bigger carbs off a Yamaha R1, and short manifold. Didn't want anything with accelerator pumps, needed the variable choke so I couldn't bog the engine by pumping gas into it.
For my needs, on the 200 I-6, it is perhaps cheaper for me to source a Weber 32/36 twin choke carb, and obtain an adaptor [from vintage inlines??] than it would be to buy a recon standard carb from the USA. [Even cheaper than buying same from a UK dealer] Weber 32/36 carbs appear regularly on UK ebay, for less than $50....only need checking and sorting the right jets, etc...
If relying on UK sourced parts, than I'd be tempted to run a large SU carb,on an elbow adaptor...they went up to 2 inch and beyond....and don't suffer from the need for an accelerator pump or two for gas mashing. Mixtures can be sorted by profiling a suitable needle....IE, pillar drill and some emery cloth.
Now, having just been out doing Dad's-taxi job, if I open the throttle wide, there's a peculier pulsing whistle.
I suspect maybe the throttle spindle might be worn..or the carb body worn, so might have to run up a brass bush for the spindle to run in.
Mind, I could be wrong...but I do detect a little 'play' in the throttle spindle...Otherwise the motor runs fine..noises apart..
 
the harder shaft wears out the softer 'case' 's metal creating leaks.
Here's one solution (same as ur own I'm thinkin):

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jet- ... gIp-PD_BwE

cheeper & more model specific on flee-bay but that's a co. we all use alot here in hu hess hay.
(I HATE amazon &...Jeff Bezos even more).
May B U've not heard of them & this is a good referral 4 U.
Till (much) Later~
- -Chad
 
So as an update the damn filter was over tightened (last time was my first change, my fault) and after some persuasion with a screwdriver driven through it I got it off. Put in the KN which fit like a charm. Hand tight this time =)

On my draining of the oil I noticed I have sludge, the plug had some pasty stuff on the end. It also smelled lightly of gasoline. Could this be from blow by? I know i have some, if I pull the cover cap in park it'll churn out.

Now, the car sat for 5 months while being sent from US-France, I'm hoping this is normal. It's been about 2K miles since last change, and 10 months run time. I ended up going for filling the new filter with synth (5/30) and filling the engine with dead dino (15/40). I'm hoping the blend with 40 calms the engine noise down. I may have a stuck valve...

Any comments or opinions are appreciated.

Best
DrC
 
DoctorC said:
On my draining of the oil I noticed I have sludge, the plug had some pasty stuff on the end. It also smelled lightly of gasoline. Could this be from blow by? I know i have some, if I pull the cover cap in park it'll churn out.

most all engines incur some form of blow-by, the harmful part is the unburned fuel vapors (hydrocarbons) which results in oil dilution, this lends to more friction and wearing of components. Hence the introduction of the PCV system. To draw our the harmful vapors and keep down oil dilution. Check your PCV valve and hose for clogging and deterioration. Check the port where the PCV hose connects to the intake and make sure its unrestricted
 
blow by is a pretty regular occurance as rings and PCV systems have miles / too lill attention.
Look at a Closed PCV System and an open variant to 'get urs right'. It needs the correct valve in that line for the model and yr, and plugged into manny vac (not port)...
I think U said 'gas in the oil" & that is more worrysome. Some carbs (again lack of attention) can leak
causing 'wash down' where the cyl walls loose their oil from gas draining down. This means at startup (the minimum) there's no oil at a crutial time. Fire is another increase chance...
Ck dip stick B4 start up evert time for awhile as a diagnosis. Drop pan and see what's there. How duz it start. If leaking the bowl will B 'empty" (take top off B4 a start & look). This can also B evap but 1 would expect that to take longer than this...
 
I have the PCV properly hooked up, to manifold and in working order. The only thing i have wrong is that with the carb spacer delete I have it sharing a nipple with the tranny vac.
As for the carb, she seems to be working well. Bogs at WOT, but i just havent taken the time to properly set her up. But leaky it doesnt seem. She can sit for a week and start after a couple pumps and a little turnover.
I'm thinking it's blowby and just sitting for too long.
Good idea to check the dipstick every day for the next couple weeks. I'll do that
 
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