replacing head gasket few questions

linkfalcon

New member
bit of a back story 65 200 has a cracked exhaust manifold found a few cracks in it and gasket is leaking while trying to remove it broke two bolts so. Pulled the head off and will drop it it off at a machine shop to have bolts extracted and gone thought. Is there a way to tell if the head has been milled before. or should be milled for the new gasket? Also bought a amazon header will the exhaust stud kit sold online classic work for that header? last question for the non adjustable rockers do you just tourque them down to 30-35 ftpound? or i'm i missing somthing. i will be using a felpro gasket and arp studs

thanks
 
"...kit sold online classic..."
closed due to founder's demise (health) reopened by another member:

https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... -studs-kit

I like the SS as they seem to B a lill more forgiving at change up time.
1) Do U have "the Handbook" ?
2) Have U looked thru the 'tech archive' above? Ex:

ci/ExhaustCare.html

Plenty more tidbits AND major decision making pieces in both...
:shock:
 
the handbook has been ordered. i read thought all the valve adjustments guides but don't see any thing on non adjustable ones
 
Hi, when your engine has hydraulic lifters and non adjustable rocker arms you just torque the pedestals.
Inspect the push rods for wear and keep them in order.
Clean everything to like new condition, and check everything for wear.
Many machine shops will do a light cut on the head so it is flat. CC the combustion chambers so you know where you are at. If the chamber is small, the head has been milled.
Some of the studs need thread sealer because they go into the water jacket.
Read the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook for some simple upgrades while your cylinder head is getting rebuilt.
Good luck
 
One indicator is the type of head gasket you found when you took it apart is it a steel shim or composite? It takes a .025 cut just to cominsate for the FelPro composite extra thickness. And more if you want to optimize the compression ration. X2 check the CC of the head to know for sure. (y) :nod:
 
"...while your cylinder head is getting rebuilt...."
i'd just add "well B4 so as to guide them in what U want, find costs (for ur approval),&/or possibly order upgrades".
Rsearch is all ways 1st so good on ya mate, "through" might B added here as well.

"...using a felpro gasket and arp studs..."
the studs R good for spreading clamping force, lining up gasket, dropping head and removal later for additional work (not needed if research is through, upgrafes done now). Some use a tip top gasket that's cutting edge tech: 'Reinz' or something like that, I forget name. Others might add correct name...

If dumping the exh manifold 4 Speed Daddy headers I'd suggest U have the 15 - 25 $ port divider tack in it. It holds the exh gasket well, divides the gases well to each the 3 / 4 tubes. Some say an increase in power but that's w/ documentation. Now the DSII is documented (as U may C in the tech archive or ur Handbook copy). Try'n get the upgraded exh gasket Matt at VI has (or I think the same co w/the head gasket makes a nice exh gasket).

"...cracked exhaust manifold..."
would it B wise to ck the rest (cracks) w/a magna flux exam B4 placing more $ into it?
 
The gasket i removed was a felpro. What should the cc's be after machineing? the head that way i can tell them the cc i want and have them adjust from there. The plan is to get the head back installed up and running again then swap to a dsII or HEI and then carb swap to. 32/36 i think. any other things i should do while there i can find the exhaust port Divider in stock. (nevermind found the port divider
 
The stock 1965 200 engines had a 8.7 to 1 compression ratio, if you did a compression test to a stock engine that's in good condition it would test at 175 PSI with that C.R. The heads measured 52 CC but some could be more at 53 CC or less at 51 CC. So assuming a stock chamber of 52 CC plus a .025 cut to the head deck to compensate for the FelPro head gasket to get back to stock 8.7 compression ratio your combustion chambers should measure in at 47 CC. With 8.7 to 8.9 to 1 C.R. the engine should run good on 87 fuel. If you wanted to use 89 to build more power you could go up to 9.0 to 9.2 for 93 fuel you could go 9.2 to 9.5. Those last two would require a little more milling of the head deck.

Besides the head milling to get the compression ratio back to stock or higher, Yes based on your plan there are a couple other head Mod's, that you should do they are reasonable in cost for the gains in flow. First thing is to open up the log intakes carb mounting hole to a minimum of 1 3/4 inch also with a radius under bottom edge that goes towards each end of the log (some go to as much as 2 to 2 1/8 inch hole when doing a 2V to 1V adapter check the flange size though on your 1965 head it may not allow that big and still provide enough gasket sealing). This mod can be done at home for just the cost of a grinding stone or two it's an excellent mod to be ready for that better carb in the future. If your also having a valve job done get a 3 angle plus back cutting do that last if your doing any of the below mod's.

Optional things depending on your budget the center port divider can be a good idea. There is also good benefit to opening up all the valve bowls and narrowing the valve guide if cost isn't to much or if you can do it yourself. And some light porting of the exhaust. For some more flow install 1.750 intake valves this is the largest stock size valve used on all the 1977 to 1983 200 & 250 heads. You can use your stock exhaust valves or go to a little bigger up to a 1.467 exhaust valve, these are the same size as the stock 144 intake valves so if you find a deal on some hunting around you might even be able to find some good useable valves in both sizes really cheap. Of course even better results can be had if you could score one of the newer large log 200 / 250 six heads for a reasonable amount they already have most of those Mod's stock (1978 to 1983). Good luck (y) :nod:
 
"...any other things i should do..."
rather than put up an item per post follow the Handbook, it's all there.
Right now I remember the back cuts to the valves,,,but it really depends on what U wanna do w/the vehicle
A level 2, 3 is what I need - U may want something else.

ci/HopUpYourSix.html

Modern cam is what the motor is built around & that's abt octane level & 80% of RPMs
The more U consider & keep or reject the better the out come, as a system it must 'all hang together', tho...
 
I think I’m going to keep this head basic get it going and save for a carb and a dizzy. Then try to find a later model head and build it.
 
great idea. Gives U time to both save $ and do ur research to making a good product. For me it really requred some good research as the machinest wanted to tell me what to do, did not understand these motors like the guys here and was totally on his own schedule.
This approach U have come up w/may avoid all that. Geter back on the rd pronto. Good on ya mate!

",,,later model,,,"
so U seek the '77+? Got any ideas on where to source?
Ign upgrade is not decernable, think DSII is in the cards?
Use a better carb? Which? No cam change?
 
77 plus head I’m not sure where if going to find it but will keep my eyes open lol. I’d like to go dsII or hei. I’m thanking the Holley 36/38 cause u have a c4 please tell me if there’s a better option. I’d love to do the cam when I do the head swap.
 
A Victor head gasket is .044" compressed, FelPro is .048" compressed.
 
Look for the large Log 200 heads up to 1982, and also the 250 used the same head up to 1983 after 1976 up there isn't any difference between a 200 or 250 head. They are found on the 1975 to 1977 Mavericks & Comets used a 250 head the 77 is the best one, the 1978 to 1983 250 heads on Granada's &, Monarck, the 200 heads were used on the 1978 up Fairmount & Zephyrs, 1979 to 82 Mustangs, & Capri's 200 heads as with many things the later head casting you can find the better. Check the casting numbers should range from D7, D8, D9, E0 E1, E2, E3, and the date codes also

On carb's that 36 / 38 Weber is good or one the Outlaw 38 / 38 versions, I like the 2100 Autolite /Motorcraft 2150 or a Holley 350 / 500 CFM depending on the power level your going for. Good luck in the hunt (y) :nod:
 
",,,77 plus head I’m not sure where if going to find it,,,"
carpartdotcom
cc that head B4 it's machined (see Handbook)
:nod:
 
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