Engine sputter in accel. And dies at idle?

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hello everyone long time since I’ve logged on. I hope all has been well for you. I’ve been wrenching more on my bird and each day she’s improving although retrofitting 3 point seatbelts is a nightmare made worse by the fact I found out I basically don’t have floor pans anymore. Anyways The old 144 definitely doesn’t have much excitement left in her (after 56 years and 222k miles I don’t blame her) and the inout shaft bearing in the tranny (Maybe throw out bearing) seems to be making quite a racket. But besides that it’s going strong no matter how sluggish or rough running the ol ford six just won’t quit although it takes a good 20-25 seconds to get close to 60 mph and the engine definitely hates full throttle and sputters on accel.
I’ve noticed that it especially hates pulling away from a stop and when I let the clutch out no matter how slowly it always wants to sputter and stall almost immediately. In order to pull away a I need to rev up to 3,500 Rpm and slip the clutch a ton for it to pull away. And another problem is it isles great smooth and super low rpm at first then slowly it begins to stumble and drop more rpm and reek of gasoline vapor. Any ideas?
As always Thanks a bunch
Jarod
 
points R 1 of the reasons we swap out that system. Highest maint item I think (every 5 - 10K mi? wear out fast)

"...reek of gasoline..."
cuz motor runs - pump pumps (but it's not burning due to poor spark)?

Good 2CU again, hear abt how the rig is doin...
(y)
 
I thought it could be ignition related but I already swapped pints for a pertronix system. I just now know it’s the needle and seat in the carb. I can tell because when it starts to idle rough you can hear it puffing and smell raw fuel out the exhaust as well as I can see fuel dripping out the booster at idle as the carb starts flooding. I already rebuilt the needle and seat though when I went through the carb the first time and it didn’t give me trouble for the first few weeks. Is this a common problem?
 
I already tried the temporary fix of tapping the seat with a hammer or wrench but this only fixed it temporarily and after a drive it starts flooding again
 
Has your fuel tank been cleaned out good? Do you run a good fuel filter? (y) :nod:
 
What is the pressure of the fuel entering the carb?
Are you running an aftermarket fuel pump?
What are you seeing out of the exhaust in each case?
Has anyone monkeyed with the timing since the trouble started?
Does engine die as soon as you let off the gas, or does it take a few seconds?
 
What kind of carb are you using again? The autolite 1100 right? I'm gonna be kinda mean here but did you clean and rebuild it properly? You gotta use compressed air and crap to clean them out properly. You shouldn't be having needle and seat issues if you did it all correctly. Did you set the float properly either?

I'm not trying to be mean, but if any of these things weren't done, you'll just be wasting your time fiddling with it. I'm learning that with my 77 Honda Gl1000 with 4 carbs. They gotta be perfect or it will never run correctly

Ryan
 
Any update on this? Im kind of going through the same issues with mine but first the butterfly wasnt opening all the way, then timing is a little funky because im pretty sure the balancer has slipped, now its fine til it stumble bumbles around. Brand new 1100 carb, new fuel tank, Duraspark... just drove it so waiting for it to cool back down to see what the spark plugs look right. at this point im still trying to figure out what Im chasing, timing or fuel (rich) or a mechanical issue in the carb itself.
 
sefus":1nbuiqdb said:
Any update on this? Im kind of going through the same issues with mine but first the butterfly wasnt opening all the way, then timing is a little funky because im pretty sure the balancer has slipped, now its fine til it stumble bumbles around. Brand new 1100 carb, new fuel tank, Duraspark... just drove it so waiting for it to cool back down to see what the spark plugs look right. at this point im still trying to figure out what Im chasing, timing or fuel (rich) or a mechanical issue in the carb itself.
If you're timing is off, time it by vacuum. Turn the idle down real low to where it barely idles, then advance the timing till it dies, then back it off a hair. Readjust the idle then back off the timing just a hair till it stops pinging. I've done this and had good results
 
StarDiero75":2dwddvu4 said:
sefus":2dwddvu4 said:
Any update on this? Im kind of going through the same issues with mine but first the butterfly wasnt opening all the way, then timing is a little funky because im pretty sure the balancer has slipped, now its fine til it stumble bumbles around. Brand new 1100 carb, new fuel tank, Duraspark... just drove it so waiting for it to cool back down to see what the spark plugs look right. at this point im still trying to figure out what Im chasing, timing or fuel (rich) or a mechanical issue in the carb itself.
If you're timing is off, time it by vacuum. Turn the idle down real low to where it barely idles, then advance the timing till it dies, then back it off a hair. Readjust the idle then back off the timing just a hair till it stops pinging. I've done this and had good results
Never set initial timing with a vacuum gauge. Thats a good way to destroy an engine.
Need to see what your total centrifugal advance is first.
If its 26 degrees then plus your initial you maybe way over 40 total. Thats way too much.
It may be way less??
You need to know what you have before going any further.
Check your accelerator pump shot & see if it works. It may need more pump shot, which is adjustable.
Let us know your findings.
 
wsa111":u1t5musl said:
StarDiero75":u1t5musl said:
sefus":u1t5musl said:
Any update on this? Im kind of going through the same issues with mine but first the butterfly wasnt opening all the way, then timing is a little funky because im pretty sure the balancer has slipped, now its fine til it stumble bumbles around. Brand new 1100 carb, new fuel tank, Duraspark... just drove it so waiting for it to cool back down to see what the spark plugs look right. at this point im still trying to figure out what Im chasing, timing or fuel (rich) or a mechanical issue in the carb itself.
If you're timing is off, time it by vacuum. Turn the idle down real low to where it barely idles, then advance the timing till it dies, then back it off a hair. Readjust the idle then back off the timing just a hair till it stops pinging. I've done this and had good results
Never set initial timing with a vacuum gauge. Thats a good way to destroy an engine.
Need to see what your total centrifugal advance is first.
If its 26 degrees then plus your initial you maybe way over 40 total. Thats way too much.
It may be way less??
You need to know what you have before going any further.
Check your accelerator pump shot & see if it works. It may need more pump shot, which is adjustable.
Let us know your findings.
Really? I've been told by old school hot rodders that it aint bad. You just have to be careful when getting it all dialed in. But I won't ever do it again then.
 
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