THEORY IN ACTION - a newly modified log for a 2 barrel

Hot 6t Falcon

Well-known member
Departed Member
Howdy everyone from the Schjeldahl Brothers!

My brother, Dave, and I have a project head on which we are working. It is a “hex” log D8BE. We have mounted the carb flange on the log - off set to the front. So why do this??? One reason is that it is a good experiment to see if the theory of “the front 3 ports are running leaner than the 3 rear ports during acceleration or even just cruising.”

Another reason, it was a little easier, and therefore cheaper, to slide the carb forward – less welding and flatter to mill smooth. We’ll know more as we get it on the 1978 Mercury Zephyr “Z” and do some testing. Spark plug readings will tell us a lot! So will the stopwatch.

Matt Cox of Vintage Inlines sold us the carb flange, and the 302 one piece valve spring retainers and tubular pushrods for the adjustable rocker arms.

I can’t figure out how to post pictures on the TFFN or FSP. It says to post them to Photobucket??? What’s that??? Do you know how to post pictures to the forums? HELP this Old man.

2bbl carb adapter.jpg
Pictures:
#1 Shows the #2 intake port. The little screwdriver shows where the threads were for the original one-barrel.
1 Modified 200 intake.jpg
#2 Shows where the second set of threads for the original carb threads were (near the heel of the screw driver.)
2 Modified 200 intake.jpg
#3 Shows the difference between the length of the manifold to the front and the length of the manifold to the rear of the Carb flange.
3 The mock up.jpg
So why do this??? One reason is that it is a good experiment to see if all the theory of “are the front 3 ports running leaner than the 3 rear ports during acceleration or even just cruising.” Another reason, it was a little easier, and therefore cheaper, to slide the carb forward – less welding and flatter to mill smooth.

My red 1978 Mercury Zephyr “Z” coupe is PS, PB, Auto, AC. I got old, and the Falcon Ranchero from 20 years ago is worn out and too hard to drive. But the stock “smog” 200 Zephyr is just too slow, and the valve stem seals are completely shot. All of the smog equipment has been pulled.

The new carb will be an Autolite 1.14 with .059 jets. The head has 1.5” SSI exhaust valves. The stock diameter intake valves are backcut. The head was milled .065” in anticipation of a thick head gasket. This works out to a 9.0 to 1 compression.

I am also working on using an offset woodruff key in the timing gears… to alter the stock cam timing just a bit. I bought a Mister Gasket Crank/Cam Key 4 degree offset #988G. After I pull the timing chain, and gears set off an extra 1969 M 200 I have, I’ll have a better idea if the key will work. Has anyone else tried this?

The car will NOT have headers. I am seriously considering a small low pressure turbo. No more than 4 lbs. boost. That will have a “J” pipe from the stock exhaust manifold. BUT… this will come a year or so down the road. I have to move the AC compressor first.

Dennis Schjeldahl (say shell-doll)
 
I have used that key with success. They made a longer one that worked better,cannot find it anymore. with the short key you will have to fit it to the crank sprocket only to get full engagement and the stock one fitted for just the damper. (some grinding will be necessary on the keys) As long as the bolt is torqued to spec all will be good.

I would still degree it , it is very cheap to do today.
 
Howdy:

Hey Drag Stang, did you use the offset key to advance or retard cam timing? What cam?

To elaborate on Dennis' overview of the project, the reason for considering using an off-set woodruff key to retard the cam timing to improve the street performance of a stock '78 200 cam. In '78 stock 200 cams are very advanced in an effort to improve low rpm urban speeds and mpg. Add to that a high rear gear ratio and snappy performance goes out the window. CR in those years was also reduced to 8:1, which also reduced torque. So, our idea is that by retarding cam timing performance might be improved. That along with a 9:1 CR should increase cruising joy.

Please note that the goal is to get the most out of a stock cam, stock exhaust manifold, modified and upgraded stock FoMoCo parts. We had to do our test times at 0 - 50 mph because 0 - 60 was painfully slow. First test times were done with a very uncooperative #1946 and stock ignition timed by ear. 3.08:1 rear gearing with a C4 trans.

Weather is turning fast, so don't expect this project to move rapidly. Weather in North Dakota can be character building. We'll keep you posted on any progress.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":2d31c6fi said:
Howdy:

Hey Drag Stang, did you use the offset key to advance or retard cam timing? What cam?

To elaborate on Dennis' overview of the project, the reason for considering using an off-set woodruff key to retard the cam timing to improve the street performance of a stock '78 200 cam. In '78 stock 200 cams are very advanced in an effort to improve low rpm urban speeds and mpg. That is a reasonable expectation on the part of the engineers.Add to that a high rear gear ratio and snappy performance goes out the window. CR in those years was also reduced to 8:1, which also reduced torque. So, our idea is that by retarding cam timing performance might be improved.Referring back to your previous analogy, retarding the cam will then contradict your previous thoughts of it being advanced to help low end. And, it is going to diminish the low end driveability by retarding the cam and hurt low end response at the cruise RPM, it will help on the top end however, but negates your intentions for the build. I think you should leave the cam installed as is first and then create a baseline to establish a starting point to further tweak and refine. But is seems like a solid plan and I think the spacer idea has credibility. That along with a 9:1 CR should increase cruising joy.

Please note that the goal is to get the most out of a stock cam, stock exhaust manifold, modified and upgraded stock FoMoCo parts. We had to do our test times at 0 - 50 mph because 0 - 60 was painfully slow. First test times were done with a very uncooperative #1946 and stock ignition timed by ear. 3.08:1 rear gearing with a C4 trans.

Weather is turning fast, so don't expect this project to move rapidly. Weather in North Dakota can be character building. We'll keep you posted on any progress.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6 HI,

The last cam was a racer brown solid lifter ST-14 266 adv. 485 lift . I used the key to get the events to match the cam card which was ground with 2 degrees advance. I believe I had to advance it. I always degree , I have found they are all over the place. I have no experience with the stock cams..
 
This just in !:
Experiments from the field test facility!

(Needed:
2nd car to act as unmodified scientific comparison!)
Yeah, right...
:eek:
:roll:


Good Luck. I too will stay tuned.
 
Scrap the stock cam. Install a decent aftermarket camshaft with much more lift & use valve springs with a dampner. Use the offset key to obtain a true TDC, then get the JP timing chain & gear set to dial in the camshaft.
Why waste time & money using stock junk.
I like the forward mounting of the carb.
David or Dennis let me know on the vacuum advance deal???
 
Howdy Back All:

Hey Bill (aka wsa111)- Yeah we could do that, but that's not what we're about. The premise of the Handbook is the make do, get by and to improvise- to take the path less traveled. To upgrade with stock FoMoCo parts whenever possible or to modify stock parts, from Ford or ?. There is no doubt that an aftermarket performance cam is a better cam than a stock piece. But if a gain can be achieved with an offset key or a cam gear let's find out. Nothing lost, nothing gained for trying. But that's down the road. The question about the offset cam gear key was to survey folks here about past experiences.

Also note that this is a pretty nice survivor 1978 Mercury Zephyr Z7, C4 with ac- not a performance, race (ever) car. Built for comfort, not for speed (well, some speed).

The issue with the Holley #1946 was a, yet again, attempt to get this stock type carb to be user friendly in an altered engine setting. Most all of the EPA emissions crutches have been removed. So we were attempting to get a ported vacuum source for the stock DS II distributor. No luck. But, this is a temporary problem because once the new head is on the Holley #1946 will be gone. An Autolite 1.08 will solve that problem.

So, for the time being, the engine will struggle along with a horribly advanced cam and a "Not User Friendly" carb designed for slow and low (Kinda like me). Once the new head is on, fabricating linkage for the down kick on the C4 will be the order of business.

So Bill, I hope that answers your question and give you perspective on what this was about. Your suggestion is right on for most folks, but that's not the way we fly (or roll, as the case may be), at the moment. Someday, down the road, possibly.

Adios, David
 
I 4 one like this approach.
It is staged just like the real world.
I don't have money or time to 'go all the way" right off.
Bench testing a lot is out too.
 
CZLN6":11g5e3w0 said:
Once the new head is on, fabricating linkage for the down kick on the C4 will be the order of business.
Adios, David

david, might i suggest going with a cable linkage for the kick down? there are actually to ways you can go on that.

one is to mount the cable at the carb, and figure out tie down locations down to the trans, where you would have to flip the kick down arm on the trans(necessary with the cable linkage anyway) to make it work properly.

the other method would be to use an arm that drops down from the accelerator bell crank, assuming it is in the engine compartment, like the early falcons used, and run a short cable from there.

just a couple of ideas for you.
 
Howdy :

A cable linkage is a given as that's already there stock in a '78 Zephyr. We'll save your suggestion for when the time comes.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":3e1khaar said:
Howdy :

A cable linkage is a given as that's already there stock in a '78 Zephyr. We'll save your suggestion for when the time comes.

Adios, David

interesting, my 82 fairmont was a mechanical linkage for the kick down.
 
Any idea when you might have this up and running to test? also what are the dimensions of your slot that you milled into the log? I will be my head soon for a direct mount.
 
Howdy:

rbohn- Yup, cable to the carb and rod to the trans. Sorry, I wasn't clear.

tdlund- No time schedule on this project. As I mentioned the weather in ND gets a little dicy this time of the year and Dennis is working in a garage with no heat. The oval mimics the T-bores of a Holley 2300 and an Autolite 2100, I don't think I've ever measured one. I think the adapter Dennis used came from Matt Cox at Vintage Inlines.

Adios, David
 
My brother is being too subtle. He is dancing around why I don't go out to my unheated one-stall garage everyday until it is done. I can't.

I have bone marrow cancer. MSD if you want Google it. I am doing chemo again this coming week for 7 days straight. It leaves me listless. I get a blood transfusion every 5 to 7 days to stay alive. Dave lives in Idaho, I live in North Dakota. 1000 miles one way. He can't just drop over.
Enough of me. Some days it is hard to stay positive.

I am trying to get the local high school auto shop, or the local technical college auto shop, to put the head on. My car club will be willing to help with the details.

Thanks for the positive posts about tranny linkage; the cam timing; etc.

Dennis
 
Hot 6t Falcon":58cjwrgd said:
My brother is being too subtle. He is dancing around why I don't go out to my unheated one-stall garage everyday until it is done. I can't.

I have bone marrow cancer. MSD if you want Google it. I am doing chemo again this coming week for 7 days straight. It leaves me listless. I get a blood transfusion every 5 to 7 days to stay alive. Dave lives in Idaho, I live in North Dakota. 1000 miles one way. He can't just drop over.
Enough of me. Some days it is hard to stay positive.

I am trying to get the local high school auto shop, or the local technical college auto shop, to put the head on. My car club will be willing to help with the details.

Thanks for the positive posts about tranny linkage; the cam timing; etc.

Dennis

i hope you beat this dennis, i believe you can. but i know what you are going through. i have end stage kidney disease, and i do dialysis three days a week. but i also suffer from anemia, and minor COPD, among other issues.

best of luck to you my friend.
 
often amazed at how our folks "continue on" regardless
of things they face on a min-by-min, daily, weekly & monthly basis.
Hope we/this site serves as a minor distraction and we can all share our strength in some way on another.

Giving thanks for ur bein there as #1 and what each & every 1 of U bring individually as #2.
Best wishes for your trials and recovery.
 
Dennis, i did not know how serious your condition was.
I hope your local tech school will be able to complete your project under your supervision.
If i can be of any help on distributor work just give me a shout.
I hope your condition improves so you can enjoy the fruits of your knowledge on your build. V/R Bill
David, let me know what you want on the vacuum advance deal??
 
Howdy Back:

Thanks Bill and all. We really appreciate your kindness and thoughts. Dennis is way more blunt than I, but we do work well together. I got to go up to North Dakota this past summer to spend a few days with Dennis. The project was an inspiration to both of us. I thank God for the medical miracles that he bestows upon us every day. Again, thanks.

CNC-dude- Our thought was that since the cam timing is so advanced in the '78 and later cams, retarding it some, comparable to the patterns on the pre-'78 200s it would move the power curve up, higher in the RPM range. Our experiences reflect back on how much more power a '65 200 would have from 2 to 4 grand- even with the lowly 1100 and LoM.

I'm told that part of the reason for the cams drastic timing change was to reduce emissions as well as a low end torque increase. I've found nothing to verify that. But the late model 200s sure have a different feel behind the wheel. Yes, gearing, an emission choked carb, lower compression and a choking exhaust system all contribute. The question about using an offset woodruff key to retard the timing is probably moot, because the amount of change would be slight. Switching to an earlier 200 cam makes little sense too. If we were to switch cams it would be for a cam with a more modern profile and increased lift (ala WSAIII suggestion.) So, step 1 is a new (old) head- milled, bigger valves, back cut, pocket ported and modified for the 2100 two barrel. We suspect that change, when up and running, will reveal the inadequacies of the stock cam. Till then, one day at a time.

Again, thanks.
Adios, David
 
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