Head Swap Pointers

cr_bobcat

cr_bobcat

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So I'm just about to do the head swap and I want to make sure I don't do anything stupid. I've never done this before so any pointers would be most appreciated.

Head: 2bbl conversion, oversized valves, damped valve springs, 48cc chambers
Gasket, 2 choices: ROL (assuming it's a 0.050" compression height), OEM "valve grind kit" (~0.035" compression)
Bottom End: Stock, stock, stock
Distributor: HEI (not a DUI)
Carb: Autolite 2100 1.14, 1" riser (2 x 0.5" phenolic spacers so that linkages clear the log)

I do have a new cam to go in, but I'm not planning on putting it in until this winter. I'd kind of like to get the carb dialed in before I deal with the cam. I've never done a cam install either so I'd like to keep my unknowns at a minimum unless you guys convince me otherwise. This means I'll probably run the ROL gasket since it's a rockauto special. I realize that this means I'm throwing away a gasket, so I'd rather not throw away the thinner OEM gasket.

I have the head stud kit that I got from Will awhile back. Do I need to be careful with anything here with respect to oiling?

Am I being to much of a yella belly about the cam? I realize it's creating a lot of extra work from the perspective of draining the cooling system twice. I just know what I went through a couple years a go and a simple "replace the water pump" ended up in all kinds of shinanigans and took me forever to resolve. I'd kind of like to be able to enjoy driving her as much as possible leading up to Thanksgiving.

Do I need to worry about these valve springs with my existing cam? Am I running the risk of wiping a lobe? Do I need to reassemble the head with the stock springs?
 
Now is the time to install the cam, cause you have to remove the head to remove the old lifters & to install the new lifters on the new cam.
I like the Victor head gasket, its thinner & seals excellent.
I would not even be concerned with the valve spring deal.
Remember to apply sealer to the RF headbolt cause it is exposed to the cooling system.
Get rolling, i want to hear the results.
 
wsa is right, now is the time to install the cam, otherwise you are doing all the head swap work twice, and spending more money than you need to. add to the tuning the carb, then tuning it again after the cam swap?
 
"...Remember to apply sealer to the RF head bolt cause it is exposed to the cooling system."
They say don't worry bout the opposite end (is it "11" or "13"? ) the oiling bolt (a lill different from all other bolts - thinner shank to allow oil passage) when changing over to studs BUT:
make sure to check the separate block/head oil passage (a lill kidney bean shaped hole/puddler/passage way) that connects the head/block. When giving a mill pass for truing/decking that lill fella can B reduced & needs to B re-established for 'flow thru' of lubricant.
There's a thread (& it's good cuz it's got pic) that shows it done well. Only need a lill dremmel not a big burr.
 
Alright. Sold. I'll do everything at once.

This means I'll use my OEM shim gasket (0.035"). I've already got the new lifters sitting there waiting too. I know from a "amount of work" standpoint, it makes sense to do it all at the same time. I'll just have to make sure to read things 3 or 4 times before I do anything so I don't noob it up too bad (y)

How long does this kind of thing usually take?

I'm sure I'll have plenty of noob questions to ask as I go. :beer:
 
cam and head swap together should take about 8 hours for the average novice, given that you havent really done anything like this before, you should budget perhaps a total of 16 hours to do the job. it is a good weekend project. just take your time, document everything with diagrams and pictures, use tape to label where the wires go, etc.

one thing, when you get the old cam and lifters out, set the lifters in order so that you can either reuse the cam at a later date, or sell it to someone in the future. an egg carton makes a dandy receptacle for the lifters, just mark them properly.
 
@cr_bobcat,

Is the engine still in the car?

I swapped the cam in my old 200 with the engine in the Ranchero. I had to pull the grille, valance and bumper off.

Thanks
Bob
 
Good call on degree'ing the cam. I had almost forgotten about that.

Engine is still in the car. I did buy an electronic version of the service manual and already printed out the cam replacement sections. I'll walk through those a few times before I actually try it. My biggest concern is that I damage a bearing. As long as I go slow I "should" be ok.

I think I'll wait to install my header until after initial break in just in case I'm running a little too lean on the mix
 
cr_bobcat":29qivmzu said:
I think I'll wait to install my header until after initial break in just in case I'm running a little too lean on the mix
Click to expand...

now that you can wait on.
 
I hear most people on here say "degree the cam" and I have watched a few videos on doing this, but what is the purpose other than making sure its correct? If its off in some way is there a way to adjust? I'm getting ready to put a new cam in also.
 
tdlund":3w4qjuur said:
I hear most people on here say "degree the cam" and I have watched a few videos on doing this, but what is the purpose other than making sure its correct? If its off in some way is there a way to adjust? I'm getting ready to put a new cam in also.
Click to expand...

yes there is a way to adjust a cam that is out of kilter. offset bushings, or offset key ways do the job nicely. some engines even have adjustable cam gears, and there are also cranks gears that have multiple key ways that you can use to advance or retard the cam as needed.
 
cr_bobcat":9mdyh9wa said:
Good call on degree'ing the cam. I had almost forgotten about that.

Engine is still in the car. I did buy an electronic version of the service manual and already printed out the cam replacement sections. I'll walk through those a few times before I actually try it. My biggest concern is that I damage a bearing. As long as I go slow I "should" be ok.

I think I'll wait to install my header until after initial break in just in case I'm running a little too lean on the mix
Click to expand...

Cam bearings are very forgiving. Use a long long 7/16 NC bolt as a handle,go slow,turn crank when cam hits rods.
 
I seem to remember this stuff taking longer. Maybe it's because I had the front end apart 2 years ago, but after only about 2 hrs worth of effort (in 30 min chunks) I have the head ready to come off. Never-seize is an awesome thing. The water pump and t-stat stuff came out slick as can be. Only trouble I had was with the exhaust which hadn't been touched since the 90's. Well, I guess I also destroyed the hardline that runs to the C4. I've never loosened that in the 25 years I've owned the vehicle.

I should have the balancer off in no time flat too since that was just put on 2 years ago too. I reckon I've got another hour or 2 work before I have everything down to the short block. We'll see how much of a pain it is to crack the head free from the block though...

Now I need to start arranging tools. Need to get a degree wheel. Will ask a few buddies at work if they have one. Also need to order my break-in oil and make sure I have a bottle of goo to smear the cam with. Picked up the long bolt today for the cam install.
 
Head bolts removed and head broken loose. Only a few more things to take off: Alt, Damper, Timing Cover, and Timing Chain. Going to get that all knocked off in the next few days. Can't seem to source a cam wheel here locally so I guess I'll have to order one. Going to try calling a few spots first.

Once disassembled I plan to do the following. Let me know if there's more I should add to the list.
1) Measure Bore
2) Degree old cam just for grins
3) Measure Deck Height

As far as installing my new cam goes, how much advance do you guys think I need? I have the Clay Smith 264/274 - 110*. I'm expecting my static compression to be ~9.2. I will re-verify once I recompute with the numbers measured above.
 
i would use between 2 and 4 degrees advance on the cam to beef up the low end power.
 
That is an excellent idea! I just printed out a few copies. I'll borrow my 5 yr old's glue stick, glue it to a piece of cardboard, and be on my merry way. I love it! :beer:
 
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