All Small Six Rear Tire Issues

This relates to all small sixes

Cesarvi17

Well-known member
Subscriber
Supporter 2023
Hey guys, I have a 65 Mustang with a swapped rear end (8in with 4 Lug from a Maverick). I got the appropriate backspacing (4.25 inches) after swapping the rear end. I did a little bit of shaving on the fenders (both sides are evenly proportional). I put on 255/60/15 tires with a wheel size of 15x8. Someone on the forum helped me out with the sizes and what could and could not fit and I also measured the back just in case. After shaving and measuring, only my left rear tire is rubbing/scraping on the fender but I can’t find out where exactly. The tires are not touching the leaf springs nor anything on the most inner wall of the fender. I had two people sit above the tire and two people sit inside the car and nothing seemed to be touching the tire on either side. Has anyone had this issue? I’m thinking of going down to 235/60/15 to be on the safe side but the thickness of the 255s are perfect.

Quick summary: My left tire is rubbing/scraping somewhere on the fender and I can’t find where. My right tire is completely fine.D65B6C7D-37E4-4D92-AF91-70269B9FCB14.jpeg
 
The Rear Tires look great on your 65 Mustang! It does look like maybe you need to Roll the Fender Lips some so there are no sharp edges near the Wheels & Tires anytime during the cars suspension's movement. Hard to tell much at that Picture Angle. Note that the Rear Springs don't just move in a straight up and down motion, this is because of the Arch of the Rear Springs and the movement of the Rear Spring Shackles the Wheel / Tire assembly can also move a little forward and backward too, so be sure to work on the front of the wheel opening all the way down to the bottom edge of the Rocker Panels because of the Rear Fenders curve shape they usually don't need as much work done on them.

The old tech way to roll the Fender Lips that I have always used was with my favorite Body Hammer and Dolly's, together with liberally Rubbing some used Engine Oil on the Paint surface this can help protect the paint from Damage. I would move the metal slowly and gently working it all the way around then repeat again as many times as needed until I got the Tire Clearance where it needed to to be. Lots of people also did it the Quick and Dirty way with an old Wooden Baseball Bat. Edited with some additional info.

https://www.nerdynaut.com/how-to-roll-fenders-without-a-fender-roller

Today there is the new Tech way to roll the Fenders Lips that is shown in these three links.

https://low-offset.com/workshop/what-why-how-to-roll-fenders/

https://autorestorer.com/articles/working_with_a_fender_roller-1808

Using the Eastwood Fender Roller

 
Thanks Bubba. I’ll try and roll them some time this week. I was hoping I didn’t have to but if it’s a small amount, I guess it won’t be too noticeable.
 
I rolled all my 4 fenders. The rear is the hardest because the lip is thicker then the front. My rears still rub. I have to go a little more

You may have to do some relief cuts to roll them. Go slow & use some heat from a heat gun to help protect the paint from cracking or flaking.

I see you are in California. If you are near the Bay Area you can borrow my fender roller.
 
I rolled all my 4 fenders. The rear is the hardest because the lip is thicker then the front. My rears still rub. I have to go a little more

You may have to do some relief cuts to roll them. Go slow & use some heat from a heat gun to help protect the paint from cracking or flaking.

I see you are in California. If you are near the Bay Area you can borrow my fender roller.

I’m not too worried of the paint. There’s actually no clear coat on the car. The guy I got it from didn’t prime the car and didn’t complete a clear coat on it but barely any rain or bad weather reports over here so I’m lucky.

I’m in the South Bay Area. Pretty long drive but I appreciate your help.
 
To keep you guys updated, before rolling the fenders, I made sure the height of both sides of the car were even; they weren’t. The left side of the car is lower than the right side by a quarter inch. That quarter inch makes a big difference. So I’m looking into options to even out or just replace the shocks again with stiffer ones. What do you guys think?
 
Likely a sagging spring on that one side so new shocks won't really change the ride height unless they are an Air Shock or they have some overload springs on them. You could probably make a simple 1/4 inch Spacer plate to add on that side between the spring and axle to get back that 1/4 inch. But I still think you might need to Roll the Fender Lips some. Unless you could also loosen up the U Bolts on both sides and see if you can shift the Rear Axel over slightly to the Right side if there is more clearance there. Good luck
 
Hey guys, quick update. I’m very adamant about keeping the tire size so I was able to also find a shackle kit from Mr.Gasket. I’m going to install it for a small lift in the back.
 

Attachments

  • 7258B68E-3999-46DC-AD12-8A5F57D3BA49.jpeg
    7258B68E-3999-46DC-AD12-8A5F57D3BA49.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 3
If your leaf springs are old they may be sagging. You can verify this condition with the proper measurements. That is what I found with my Bronco many years ago. Front coils could be sagging also.
 
Cesar, you may want to check the dowel pins in your differential. If one (or both) is broken, this could cause a shift in your rear end. (Per my better half).
 
Thanks guys. Maybe I’ll end up buying new rear springs to freshen it up too.
 
Just because I became curious about what kind of stock/performance suspension parts for six cylinder Mustang are available a quick search revealed a vast number of vendors and parts. Eaton offers six cylinder Mustang suspension parts including 'Improved Handling' rear leafs available in taller or lower ride heights! The choices are just overwhelming really.

 
Thats awesome. I usually prefer buying from places that really take into consideration the 6 community so I’ll check them out. Thank you.
 
Eaton is better than Scott drake for sure and they make them here in the USA. NPD usually has them in stock and better price than direct. I got a set of 5 leafs mid eye with a set of bilsteins shocks. Should improve my ride I think.
 
I should’ve invested in bilsteins shocks too or something other than what I got now. But when I bought my shocks, my original plan was to get the car running good until I stumbled onto this community.
 
I should’ve invested in bilsteins shocks too or something other than what I got now. But when I bought my shocks, my original plan was to get the car running good until I stumbled onto this community.
Yeah I did the same and bought kyb and then never installed and got the bilsteins.
 
I wonder what the condition of your front Spring Bushings and the rear Shackle Bushings are in? The rear Bushings are fairly easy to change and usually a low cost for the set the front bushing are harder to change without a press or using some heat.
 
Back
Top