All Small Six 200 6 rebuild steps
- Thread starter adobejoe
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
I usually glue down the Cork Gaskets to the Blocks Pan Rails first but the silicone can work be carful the the cork doesn't side out when tightening down the pan bolts. Yes just a little silicone where the Rubber Seal meats the Cork Pan Gaskets. I see you have the Pilot Busing on the end of the Dagenham input shaft is that a new one? If so you need to install that into the Crankshaft Center soon along with the Tin Block Spacer if the Dagenham uses one before the Flywheel and Clutch Assembly go on. Looking good won't be long now.
Yes, new pilot bearing. I will use grease sparingly on it and parts near the clutch. Keep it dry! I am wondering about the diagram I sent because I do not recall several small parts/spacers(?) in front of crankshaft. Parts number 6306,6310.6700. My pulley is a double not a single and there is clearance, but not much with the front of case. See pencil point above. Maybe not to be concerned?
6306 is the timing chain crank shaft sprocket, 6310 is the oil slinger, it was no longer used after about 66, it is not needed. 6700 is the oil seal in the timing cover.
That's excellent!
LOL drag-200stang beat me to that punch line!
The part # 6306 is the Crankshaft's Timing chain Gear you all ready have that installed with the Timing Chain and Gear set.
The part # 6700 is on the Engines Front Timing cover or it should be already, its the Front Crankshaft seal its Lip Seal will be sealing on the Crankshaft Dampers Hub when its installed.
That only leaves The part # 6310 missing this is the Timing covers front Crankshaft Oil Seal Splash Shield /Oil Slinger Ford used these on all the early engines and then discontinued their use sometime on the later model engines. Since you are using a stock type timing chain instead of the Duel Roller Type you could use the Splash Shield if you had one otherwise if your engine didn't have it to start with it won't hurt anything if you can't find one to use. Good luck Edited
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Do not forget sealer or better yet blue loc tight under 5,000 rpm and red over, on the flywheel to crank bolts or they will leak.
Yes, thanks, will rarely go over 5,000 rpm so will use blue on all six bolts. Engine righted and pilot bearing and spacer plate on loose. Will use blue on clutch backing or pressure plate, bell housing, water pump, etc. I will likely drop engine and tranny in together w/out head. That is how I took it out and it was well balanced. Plus I don’t have to deal with tarn you alignment and bolts on my back on the floor. Makes it a little tricky installing head. Use blue thread lock on head, valve cover, etc?
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I am curious about something. When I put the distributer in and pre-rotate to number one cylinder where should that face? For example when I removed the engine the wires were as shown. Number one facing the block. Is this correct? Maybe it does not matter as long as contacts and wires are correct.?
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Correct. You can clock the distributor body or the rotor shaft in any position you choose, as long as the internals are properly engaged and it's timed correctly. On an old Rambler I recently bought, the factory distributor position had the points at the bottom and were hard to see or reach because the distributor is nearly horizontal. I re-clocked the dist body so they face up where I can see the gap and get to the points.
The Distributor in your picture looks like it is clocked to the right position as they were originally when installed. The stock Ford Distributor Cap's will also usually have a #1 next to the Spark Plug Wire Tower for the #1 Cylinder this is were the Rotor would be Leading to pointing at when Distributor is installed correctly. Some Distributor Caps also can have a number next to each tower for the firing order see below pictures of the two types. These Ford Six Distributor Caps also have a small Notch so they can only go on one way too, I don't remember if the #1 will be next to the block on top though. Good Luck
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This dist. location looks right to me with #1 away from the block. The dist. was removed and not put back on the #1 compression stroke, so the wires had to be like what you have to run. That is why #6 is where #1 should be.
X2 yes for sure sometimes people will just move the Plug Wires around on the Cap instead of dropping in the Distributor correctly and it for sure works and is often done like that on the Brand X Cars, though I never though that was any easier than just doing it the OEM way. Also when I was doing my training for A & P Licenses they always wanted it done by the book. Good luck
You said # 1 used to be where #6 is now before tear-down. Now that you're starting fresh with a new cam and all, the rotor should point to the correct spot that says #1, away from the engine. If it's at #6 you'll want to double-check that you're on compression stroke. If you are sure you're on compression TDC #1 and it's still off, pull the distributor out just enough to free the rotor shaft and align it as close to #1 on the cap as possible, then move the dist. enough to time it. OR simply put the wires in the right slots, ignoring the cap numbers.
With points you can set the base timing perfectly with the engine off using a volt meter or a test light if you like. This is my method of choice with points.
Got it thanks, I attached flywheel and noticed the backing or spacer plate does not meet for several threaded holes in the block, up high. See picture. I assume this engine was designed for heavier tranny or at least a larger bell housing? When I bought the car in the early 1980s. They told me they replaced original engine with 200 six out of a 1968 Ford. The car is a 1965 mustang and I am guessing the dagenham tranny was original. They had cobbled on a 3 speed shifter, which I have changed over to 4 speed. I am guessing I drove it all those years (over 80k miles). Using 2-4 gears. Lucky I did not fry the drivetrain!
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Look on the Drivers Door Warrantee Tag for the Transmission Code that would tell you if the Dagenham is Original to your Mustang. Yes that's correct it's like this all of the 1960 to 1965 144, 170 or 200 Ford Small Six engine's only had the one single Small Bell Housing Bolt Pattern. The later 170 & 200 Six Blocks from 1966 up to the 1981's that have a High Mount Starter will have both that Small Bell Housing Bolt Pattern and the Larger One for the 1966 up bigger Bell Housing, the Larger Flat Flywheel, and the bigger 9 Inch Clutches. Since your using all of the early Smaller Bell Housing, The Smaller Stepped / Dog Dish Flywheel and 8 1/2 Inch Clutch, plus your Dagenham Bell Housing those two Higher Block Bolt Holes are not used in this case. Best of luck
I have never had an 8.5 dog dish flywheel, but I do not think that the flex plate reinforcer ring goes with the fly wheel. For what you are doing as long as you have good thread engagement, I would not worry about it.
If someone knows for sure that ford did that on 8.5 flywheels, I will edit this post. Just do not want people thinking that they are missing it when they see it in pics.
If someone knows for sure that ford did that on 8.5 flywheels, I will edit this post. Just do not want people thinking that they are missing it when they see it in pics.