Rocker Arm Stud Question

The Big Block of inline Ford sixes

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Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby coolguy1419 » Tue May 25, 2010 8:29 pm

I've got a few questions about rocker arm studs. I've currently got pedistal mount rocker arms on my 300 head. This is the head I just p&p. When I put it on I had to use some shims to get the valves ajusted. The head I took off had screw in screw in studs with different style rocker arms on it. I was wondering if I could use those rocker arms and studs on the current head I have if I pull the pedistal studs and tap the holes for the screw in studs. Here are some pictures of what I am wanting to swap onto my head with the pedistal studs.

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I don't see why this wouldn't work. Just want to make sure. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
1986 F150 4x4, 300 4.9L, 4sp, 9" rear with 3.50's, Grabber Blue, Totally Rhyno Lined, 3inch Body Lift, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 33x12.50's, Offenhauser Dual Port Intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, P&P head, Comp 260h cam, Efi Manifolds
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby CNC-Dude » Tue May 25, 2010 10:15 pm

The channel that the pedestal sits in keeps the rockers from turning side to side, thus acting like a guide for keeping the pushrod from wandering from side to side. If you eliminate that and replace with a standard rocker stud and rocker, you will need a guide plate for the pushrods to correct that. The early heads that were made for this style of setup had a slot in the head that did this and kept the pushrods straight. If you convert to that style, you will also have to get harden pushrods to be compatible with the guide plates as well. If your not experiencing any problems, I dont know that I would change it, because it might be more pricey to do than you would expect.
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby coolguy1419 » Wed May 26, 2010 4:11 pm

I wasn't wanting to eliminate the guide or anything. I was wanting to take all the stuff in the pictures and use it on the head I have now. The head I have on now has the pedistal studs on it and I had to use some shims to get the valves adjusted and they still had alittle ticking to them. Thats why I was wondering if I could swap all that stuff over and use it with no problems. I took my rockers and stuff off again today and was looking and I think that the pedistal studs are bigger around than what the bolts for those other rockers are. The bolts are 5/16 and I think those studs are 3/8. So I don't think it would work as easy as I thought it would like you say. But I got them all adjusted again today and the ticking is gone so I think I will leave them well enough alone!! Thanks for the help though.
1986 F150 4x4, 300 4.9L, 4sp, 9" rear with 3.50's, Grabber Blue, Totally Rhyno Lined, 3inch Body Lift, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 33x12.50's, Offenhauser Dual Port Intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, P&P head, Comp 260h cam, Efi Manifolds
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby MaxRat » Wed May 26, 2010 4:38 pm

I wonder if the newer GM (90 and newer) Self-Aligning rockers would work...the 1.6 ratio roller tipped arent that bad in price...

stamped roller tip in 1.6 ratio for 3/8 stud self aligning (No Guide Plates needed)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1418-8/

full roller self -aligning
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1074BL/
V6 but same as V8 and 2 less = 1.00 more...go figure...

the way i see it they should work...gonna look for some 1.7s
these are the only 1.7 rockers for 3/8 stud and NONE are self aligning so guide plate would be a MUST

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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby 80broncoman » Wed May 26, 2010 8:21 pm

Why are you trying to do this? the older rockers are actully less stable than the newer pedestal rockers.
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby CNC-Dude » Wed May 26, 2010 9:50 pm

MaxRat wrote:I wonder if the newer GM (90 and newer) Self-Aligning rockers would work...the 1.6 ratio roller tipped arent that bad in price...

stamped roller tip in 1.6 ratio for 3/8 stud self aligning (No Guide Plates needed)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1418-8/

full roller self -aligning
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1074BL/
V6 but same as V8 and 2 less = 1.00 more...go figure...

the way i see it they should work...gonna look for some 1.7s
these are the only 1.7 rockers for 3/8 stud and NONE are self aligning so guide plate would be a MUST

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Depa ... s=Rank|Asc

The only rockers from a Chevy that will work on the Ford 240/300 is from the Chevy inline 6(194-292) engines, or from the Big Block Chevy's. One's for a Small Block Chevy won't work, they don't have the right geometry to be used on these engines, even if they have the right ratio.
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby MaxRat » Wed May 26, 2010 10:50 pm

well then big block it is....i'll just get some crossbreed studs and get me a set of BB 1.7s and screw in studs and make my own guide plates...
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby coolguy1419 » Thu May 27, 2010 2:26 pm

Im not going to mess with them just leave them how they are! I thought maybe I could use the rockers and stuff off the old head I had and they would be better than the pedistal rockers I have on now.
1986 F150 4x4, 300 4.9L, 4sp, 9" rear with 3.50's, Grabber Blue, Totally Rhyno Lined, 3inch Body Lift, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 33x12.50's, Offenhauser Dual Port Intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, P&P head, Comp 260h cam, Efi Manifolds
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby bubba22349 » Thu May 27, 2010 2:33 pm

You probably could drill out the fulcrum to the 3/8 + clearance with out a problem is only 1/16 inch diff. are the pedestals the same height or will you need to make some spacers up?
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My fleet of Sixes: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby coolguy1419 » Thu May 27, 2010 3:11 pm

I belive they are the same height I would have to measure them to be sure.
1986 F150 4x4, 300 4.9L, 4sp, 9" rear with 3.50's, Grabber Blue, Totally Rhyno Lined, 3inch Body Lift, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 33x12.50's, Offenhauser Dual Port Intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, P&P head, Comp 260h cam, Efi Manifolds
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby bubba22349 » Thu May 27, 2010 3:31 pm

Good go for it should be a low or no :hmmm: buck job
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

My fleet of Sixes: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri May 28, 2010 9:30 am

bubba22349 wrote:You probably could drill out the fulcrum to the 3/8

SHEEESCH - I wouldn't do that without a mill to hold them all in the same plane. Hand drill accuracy will make every stud caddywhampus.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING
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Re: Rocker Arm Stud Question

Postby F-250 Restorer » Sat May 29, 2010 12:43 pm

CNC-Dude wrote:
MaxRat wrote:I wonder if the newer GM (90 and newer) Self-Aligning rockers would work...the 1.6 ratio roller tipped arent that bad in price...

stamped roller tip in 1.6 ratio for 3/8 stud self aligning (No Guide Plates needed)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1418-8/

full roller self -aligning
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1074BL/
V6 but same as V8 and 2 less = 1.00 more...go figure...

the way i see it they should work...gonna look for some 1.7s
these are the only 1.7 rockers for 3/8 stud and NONE are self aligning so guide plate would be a MUST

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Depa ... s=Rank|Asc

The only rockers from a Chevy that will work on the Ford 240/300 is from the Chevy inline 6(194-292) engines, or from the Big Block Chevy's. One's for a Small Block Chevy won't work, they don't have the right geometry to be used on these engines, even if they have the right ratio.


I wanted to mention that Crane Cams makes the bbc rollers in either 7/16" or 3/8". I am running a set of the 3/8" on my engine.
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