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Carter YF ports? 
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Post Carter YF ports?
taken directly from here as no one seems to know :?
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33110

asa67_stang wrote:
what are all these ports for?

Image Image Image Image Image

which (if any) should i use for the vacuum advance? block all the rest off?

gimme your thoughts on these


also, i've taken apart the one with the PCV valve on the carb body to rebuild it, inside is what looks like an accelerator pump with a little line branching off to the throttle body
now i know that plastic and rubber gets eaten up by the carb-soak, but i'm not sure how to get this entire little setup out of there, thoughts on that?


BTW - no, i'm not going carb'd on the truck, i needed a big bore carb for Susie, and here i have two

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Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:14 am
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By PCV on the carb body, do you mean that yellowed plastic thingy that's on the RH carb in the last picture? It's almost certainly a vacuum kick.

As to port ID, what about working from first principles?

Trace back from venturi to find V/vac port. One may be fuel bowl to carbon canister. Another, carbon canister to carb throat or venturi. You may have vac sources at idle - below throttle plate, and off-idle (just above closed throttle plate). Further to that, some carbs have a big fat port on the base that's really just manifold vacuum and the valve cover PCV evacuates to it.

Does this help at all?


Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:23 am
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how my PCV system is setup is that the fitting where the hose comes off the valve cover, that is the valve, and its hose comes straight down to one of the vac ports on the manifold. its worked great for me, and its a valve i got when i bought the engine used, so you could probably find one at a wrecking yard for a buck. i dont know what to tell you about the valve on the carb, but someone else has one, im sure

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Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:53 pm
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The PCV looking valve is the EGR wide open throttle dump valve.

To take out the whole assembly (accelerator pump) and the flat "rod" (pump lifter) and metering rod, undo the 4 screws at the bottom on the pump diaphram housing and the whole assembly comes out in one piece.

I have all vaccum ports on my YF1 plugged off except the vac. advance which is the port closest to one of the mounting flanges. (lowest port on the carb)

Kind of a strange carb inside isnt it? Have fun......


Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:15 am
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awesome man, thank you very much

i need to get a new vacuum line for the inside of the carb... i was a little too rough when i removed it :oops:

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Sat Apr 22, 2006 1:53 am
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Well I've searched through many pages of posts and this is the best one I could find.. I'm just trying to clarify. I have a carb just like the carb on the right in the 1st pic. The vacuum advance port is the lowest on it? Which pic best shows that? I've have it on my 84 bronco and am going back to a distributor from a '68. Just making sure they are compatible.

And while I'm at it, is my '84's coil compatible with the distributor from '68?

Lastly just to make sure, this is the Carter YF, correct?


Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:25 pm
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There are a number of incompatabilities here. For one, you have a feedback solenoid equipped carb on the '84, correct? If so, the ECM won't know how to deal with it if you ditch the matching distributor...

I don't even know if the feedback carb has an appropriate vacuum advance port, if the diz that was there was not even equipped with a vacuum advance...

And no, I wouldn't advise using the '84's coil on the '68 diz. The voltage output is much higher, and you may have trouble with spark jump on the narrow diameter/old school distributor.

In other words, if you want to dumb down the distributor, you have to dumb it all down...

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Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:31 pm
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id hook a vac guage up to the ports one by one and see how much they pull at idle and with the throttle open. i have my vac advance connected to the ported vac on the carb, which has no vac at idle but vac when the throttle is open - seems to work for me. i cant remember if the feedback carb i used to have had a vac advance port or not, as i changed the carb before i changed the dist, so i never needed to know :roll:


Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:35 pm
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Aaah well I may not have vacuum advance right away. Sitting at home (at college now) I have a motorcraft 2150 that has vacuum advance... I just have to get an adapter plate for it. That will work.

Can anyone second my current '84 coil not working with the '68 dizzy? Thanks.


Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:38 pm
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'68 is points, right? if so, theres a thread somewhere around here that had a link to a site that showed how you could make it work.

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38862

www.gofastforless.com


Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:44 pm
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daverbmxer2 wrote:

Can anyone second my current '84 coil not working with the '68 dizzy? Thanks.


Oh, it'll WORK alright. For a couple of runs down the dragstrip. But the points will burn up REAL quick :evil:

Problem is, the TFI coil has a much higher inductance and a much lower primary resistance. This causes it to draw lots of current (amps) and the breaker points won't handle much over about three amps for any length of time.

However, if you use the points to trigger a TFI module connected to the TFI coil, it will work dandy and the points will last about forever because the module will carry the heavy current and the points only carry a tiny amount.

Even the small diameter six cylinder distributor caps have the terminals pretty far apart so you could probably run fine without cross-firing.
Joe

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Fri Dec 01, 2006 10:13 pm
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Aaah I was afraid of something like that happening. I was planning on putting in a ballast resistor though. Would that make any difference?

Would go like so:

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Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:49 pm
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Ok I just called a guy at NAPA who knows what he's talking about and also said that it will be fine to use the '68 points style dizzy with my '84 coil, as long as I have the ballast resistor.

If the coil craps out I suppose I'd get this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ACC%2D140205&N=700+4294908331+4294840102+4294888966+4294925083+4294925143+115&autoview=sku

Anything else I haven't considered when looking at that diagram?

Thanks.


Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:03 pm
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daverbmxer2 wrote:
Ok I just called a guy at NAPA who knows what he's talking about and also said that it will be fine to use the '68 points style dizzy with my '84 coil, as long as I have the ballast resistor.

True, but then again that would cut the output of the '84 coil. By how much, I don't know (you could do the calcs and figure it out if you knew the impedence of the ballast resistor), but it's entirely possible that you'd be better off with a vintage appropriate coil. Which, of course, would also need a ballast resistor.

And... if you had to use a ballast resistor, you'd need to wire in a full-hot bypass for starting.

JW wrote:
Even the small diameter six cylinder distributor caps have the terminals pretty far apart so you could probably run fine without cross-firing.


Keep a spare cap in the gin box. You get the slightest bit of wear-dust on the inside of these things with today's resistance wires, you will go nowhere on a wet & humid day. (Ask me how I know.)

But as someone who's retro-fitted a points diz on his '86, let me say that you'll be miles ahead if you just wire the thing for a DS II system. They're dirt-simple once you know how they work, and they're cheap at the junk yards.

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Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:00 pm
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Okay.. I googled it and it seems like a pretty good system. What all would I need then? Would my current coil and distributor work?


Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:59 pm
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daverbmxer2 wrote:
Ok I just called a guy at NAPA who knows what he's talking about and also said that it will be fine to use the '68 points style dizzy with my '84 coil, as long as I have the ballast resistor...


Yup. It'll be real fine for him since he will be selling you points on a regular basis :roll: If you put two ballast resistors in series it would be about right. Which sorta defeats the purpose of a high-inductance coil.

The schematic you posted above is not for a 68 distributor.

I highly recommend you get a DS2 distributor for about a 1975 300 and use a GM HEI module to fire your TFI coil. Mine works great.
Joe

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Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:19 pm
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Sounds good. Been doing alot of reading.. didn't see what year GM module to use though?

Is there an advantage to the GM over the DS II module?

And I read that DS II was used up until 1984, but I think I have something else because I have a little computer box under my dashboard, nothing mounted on the inner fender or on the fender. Thanks so much.. sounds like this is be best of the choices.


Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:35 am
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mine originally had TFI (EEC-IV), which is probably what you have. I had a computer under the dash until i took it out when i switched to DSII. good luck!


Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:59 am
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daverbmxer2 wrote:
... didn't see what year GM module to use though?

Is there an advantage to the GM over the DS II module?...


The DS2 module was designed for use with a coil that is very similar to the old breaker point coil. The TFI coil has much higher inductance and draws more current than the DS2 module was intended to carry so it could burn it out.

The DS2 was Ford's response to the Chrysler breakerless ignition. When GM went breakerless they used the much superior HEI setup with the upgraded coil. Why Ford used the older style coil is a mystery to me, but they FINALLY wised up when they went to the TFI ignition. The TFI coil is almost a direct copy of the GM HEI coil.

You need a GM four-pin HEI module. Any grey-haired parts man will know what that is; if you are stuck with a youngster behind the parts counter, ask for an ignition module for a 1975 Chebbie Vega.

Did you read the articles at www.gofastforless.com ?
Joe

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Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:05 am
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