All Small Six Inline 200 vacuum advance

[reinvnt]

Because of some of you on this forum, a wonderful book I bought through here and a kick ass neighbor who rebuilds motors, we took my original (worn out) 170 and swapped it for a 200 out of a 68 mustang. All went great. See images for final product, all with flat top pistons, racing cam and original oil bath air filter.

Today, I feel like the motor has more to give. After a year I did manage to get it up to 80mph (4.10 gears screaming for joy) and it made a 1000 mile round trip to Aspen from Albuquerque NM without a hiccup. My issue is, I think the vacuum advance is worn and needs refreshing. I feel it could give the motor a little more back end. Anyone have any experience or advice for what I should check to see if there is indeed a leak in the advance or where else to start. I am running an auto lite 1100 (never used bought from a shelf with tag still on it - for a 240, had to bore / funnel out the carb spacer plate).

 

[bubba22349]

Your 1968 Distributor also has a Retard Function (that port is Plugged off right now) this should just be left open to the atmosphere. Or if you end up replacing that Vacuum Canister get one of the single Advance units used on one of the later model 200 Six's. If you have a Mighty Vac Pump just hook it up to the Front Port of the Advance Can if it will move the Point Plate and hold a vacuum than it is good. If you don't have a pump you can still do it the test the low buck way. Remove the Distributor Cap, disconnect the Vacuum Advance line from the Carb and Suck on the line if the Distributor Point Plate moves then put your tough over the end of the Line if the point plate stays advanced then the Vacuum Canister should be good still. If the Point Plate doesn't move than the Vacuum Advance Canister is bad and should be replaced. What year is the Autolite Carb that you used? Good luck.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, you didn't mention where you set the ignition timing. These engines run better with more initial advance then the factory specs, so @ 12* BTDC is a good starting point. Next, if you have a timing light with an advance setting you can see the total spark advance at 3000 rpm. This will be the mechanical and vacuum advance. If you have a timing light with no advance you can rev the engine and watch the timing mark move up under the water pump. Besides the vacuum canister going bad, the mechanical weights can malfunction. Good luck

 

[bmbm40]

Nice Bronco and good pics.

 

[reinvnt]

Thank you! It’s been a lot of fun

 

[reinvnt]

Hi, you didn't mention where you set the ignition timing. These engines run better with more initial advance then the factory specs, so @ 12* BTDC is a good starting point. Next, if you have a timing light with an advance setting you can see the total spark advance at 3000 rpm. This will be the mechanical and vacuum advance. If you have a timing light with no advance you can rev the engine and watch the timing mark move up under the water pump. Besides the vacuum canister going bad, the mechanical weights can malfunction. Good luck

It has a lot of advance in it. I think after I test the advance for leaks we will go through this process more scrupulous - a lil more calculated than before. The guy I’m working with tends to look at the straight six and think, “it’s not a V8, how on does it really need to be”. He means well but I know it can run better than his 428!

 

[reinvnt]

Your 1968 Distributor also has a Retard Function (that port is Plugged off right now) this should just be left open to the atmosphere. Or if you end up replacing that Vacuum Canister get one of the single Advance units used on one of the later model 200 Six's. If you have a Mighty Vac Pump just hook it up to the Front Port of the Advance Can if it will move the Point Plate and hold a vacuum than it is good. If you don't have a pump you can still do it the test the low buck way. Remove the Distributor Cap, disconnect the Vacuum Advance line from the Carb and Suck on the line if the Distributor Point Plate moves then put your tough over the end of the Line if the point plate stays advanced then the Vacuum Canister should be good still. If the Point Plate doesn't move than the Vacuum Advance Canister is bad and should be replaced. What year is the Autolite Carb that you used? Good luck.

Thank you sir! I will uncover that port. I was concerned this was a spot for leak. It’s good to know. I’ll look for a later 200 canister, I may have to send you a photo to confirm. The NOS canisters are pricy on eBay. Up to $130 these days for an unused on. Do you think the rubber is still good on them?

I will also try the poor man’s test as I don’t have the tester for the vacuum. Thanks again!

 

[bubba22349]

Yes as long as NOS Parts are stored properly they should be in very condition inside and out.