All Small Six other things to do when replacing rings?

[brian-esss]

Not sure what happened, but I recently did a quick repair on a stuck secondary on my 32/36. After I got it back on, I couldn't tune the carb at all. Car was smoking like crazy, pulled the plugs and they were black as night with a bit of oil on them too. Did a compression test and the first three cylinders were sitting at around 100.

Seems to me like the rings may be shot. Its weird because the car was running fine previously. My plan is to pop the head off and take it to a machine shop for a valve job. While that is getting done I will do a hone and replace the rings.

Is there anything else worth doing while I have things torn down? I was planning on checking wear on the rod bearings. What else should I keep my eye on? I rebuilt the engine about 18 years ago. It's a 66 200 block that was bored 0.40 over. Thanks in advance for the tips!

 

[aussie7mains]

Do not hone the bores with the engine in the frame, you get too much grit in the block and you cant clean it properly in the frame. Inspect the bores, measure up to check for straightness and out of round, if there is no lip at the top of the block and some crosshatch is left in the bore, you are usually good to go. You could fit new rings if desired, but its best with the engine out, working under the engine getting the sump off is painfull. You carb sounds like it was flooding, check needle and seat. Pull the head and take some photos for us to review.

 

[brian-esss]

Thanks for the tips! I was wondering if I could rig something to catch all the grit, but maybe should steer clear. Checking the float, needle and seat was the second thing I did after initially having problems tuning the carb. Made slight float adjustments but otherwise looked fine. I'll get that head off and snap some pictures here in the next few days. Thanks again for coming along on this ride

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would consider a complete rebuild, with new rings, bearings, cam, lifters, and adjustable timing chain set. The engine is pretty easy to pull out, and much easier to work on in the garage. Good luck

 

[brian-esss]

Hi, I would consider a complete rebuild, with new rings, bearings, cam, lifters, and adjustable timing chain set. The engine is pretty easy to pull out, and much easier to work on in the garage. Good luck

I'd like to avoid a complete rebuild if I can help it. I know 18 years since the last build seems like a long time, but I would expect a non-race engine to be in good shape for longer. But we'll see what I'm working with soon enough.

At least it is easy enough to take out. I've pulled the engine at least a half dozen times...mostly dealing with transmission gremlins since I can't drop the trans by itself easily.

Thanks for the input though, it my just come to that!

 

[78_200_C4]

In the old days in chassis rebuilds were common.
I did many of them at Stan's Complete Motor Service.
My 1978 200 has a standard bore and the crank has never been turned.
When I was 16 my grandfather paid me to install new rings, rod bearing and clutch disc in his Ford pickup after he saw me do the same thing in my 56 Victoria with a 292 .045 milled heads + Mallory dual point.

 

[aussie7mains]

This book by REPCO done in the 1970s is the best Ive seen on the subject, it DOES NOT recommend re-ring jobs in the frame, and even mentions that the grit problem, is so bad that it is better to NOT hone in the frame, just re-ring after cutting the ridge off. Ive only ever done this once and its wasnt good. https://isbnsearch.org/isbn/0909638004 ISBN

 

[PSIG]

I'd like to avoid a complete rebuild if I can help it.

No problem. IMO do a service freshening, where you check everything for spec using the Ford Sop Manual (FSM) numbers. Every owner should have a copy of the FSM for their vehicle, as a huge time and cost saver. Parts are either good or they're not, and you can gauge remaining life and judge replacement or freshening. Senseless to replace good stuff, so check it and do what's really needed, and not what isn't.

Don't forget to check what finish your specific replacement rings require. A big deal for proper break-in seating and long sealing life. Agreed - don't fall into the trap of 'easier in the vehicle', as your back, shoulders and frustrations will let you know it wasn't a good idea.

 

[brian-esss]

Wow time flys, been bogged down at work but had a bit of time today to mess with things. I wanted to run down @aussie7mains idea about the carb flooding, I do think that was the case. I put a fuel pressure gauge in-line and was seeing around 10psi, which is very weird. I added a regulator and got it down to 3psi and tuning was possible.

I still have a compression problem sitting at just about 100psi in the first couple cylinders, plus there is a good amount of gray smoke. I ran out of time today but my next step is to pop the head off and take a look.

Here is a shot of my old plugs. There seems to be a lot of oil around the threads. I'm hoping it's a problem in the valves and not the rings. Fingers crossed. Thanks for all the responses and help!

 

[aussie7mains]

Wow time flys, been bogged down at work but had a bit of time today to mess with things. I wanted to run down @aussie7mains idea about the carb flooding, I do think that was the case. I put a fuel pressure gauge in-line and was seeing around 10psi, which is very weird. I added a regulator and got it down to 3psi and tuning was possible.

I still have a compression problem sitting at just about 100psi in the first couple cylinders, plus there is a good amount of gray smoke. I ran out of time today but my next step is to pop the head off and take a look.

Here is a shot of my old plugs. There seems to be a lot of oil around the threads. I'm hoping it's a problem in the valves and not the rings. Fingers crossed. Thanks for all the responses and help!

Rocker cover leaking, can result in oil plugs like that. 10psi is too high.